Ski and Snowboard

(FAQ)

After performing side edge sharpening and polishing, a hanging burr can be formed which may feel like a razor sharp corner. This can create hooking of the edge and unexpected edge action. Removing the burr is necessary and and easy final edge tuning step.

By placing a hard stone on the base edge, and run along it, the burr can be knocked off and the edge corner polished smooth. A rubber abrasive (dressing, grinding rubber or gummi stone can follow to smooth the sharp corner further.

For all intents and purposes, regarding purpose, materials, tools, screws and installation procedures, Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers are virtually interchangeable.

The main difference between the two is that the Binding Freedom inserts have a notch across the top. This allows for the use of a slotted driver or Binding Freedom’s 3 in 1 Installation Tool. This slot also allows for the removal of the insert without ruining the interior threads while using an extraction tool with reverse threads. Stuff happens and occasionally you may need to remove an errant insert so always order more than you think you need…just in case. It is also possible that the slot in the BF insert can also get stripped or compromised and an extractor may become necessary.

Dimensions: 9mm x

Layout & Binding Templates:

Drilling Holes: 1/4″ or F?

Epoxy:

Installing Inserts: 

Screws: Flat, Button & Panhead

Threadlockers: Loctite vs Vibra-Tite

The common question regarding the screws needed for stainless steel inserts (Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers have the same threads) and particular bindings hopefully can be answered here. It is impossible for us to remain on top of every screw for every binding and there are variables that can be at play depending on your particular set of circumstances (ie, insert installation depth, shims, binding thickness, etc).

Measuring your binding thickness and adding that to your insert depth is your best guide.

Ordering more screws than you think you’ll need is always a good idea. Also, you can always reduce the length of screws that are a little long. If in doubt, erring towards longer screws with the possibility of minor modifications by grinding or filing allows some flexibility.

Using a threadlocker like Vibra-Tite or Loctite is highly recommended.

The downloads section at Quiver Killer, offers the following insights:

This is your fastener guide.

You will find 5 fasteners enclosed to help you determine the proper M5 fasteners to secure your bindings to your installed Quiver Killer binding inserts:
• 10 mm pan head
• 8 mm flat head
• 10 mm flat head
• 12 mm flat head
• 16 mm flat head
1. Determine the correct head type. This is the easy part. It should be obvious what fits into your bindings best,
the flat or pan head. Note that your bindings may require more than one head type, so try all the holes.
2. Determine the correct length. We like to use what I call the revolution method:
a) Install your Quiver Killers into your skis*.
*you can also install an insert into a scrap piece of wood if you’d like to determine your correct fasteners before mounting your skis.
b) Without your bindings, take the appropriate headed fastener and screw it all the way to the bottom of the insert, counting how many revolutions it takes to hit the bottom. Remove the fastener and now use it to secure your binding to the Quiver Killer. Again count how many revolutions you get:
• If it stops before 3 revolutions, you need a longer fastener.
• If it stops at the same number as your ‘without binding’ test, it’s too long! This is the
worst. A fastener that is too long will tighten to the bottom of the insert and not secure your binding to the ski. You need a shorter fastener.
• If it stops between these two lengths , this is probably the correct fastener. We strive for between 3-5 revolutions.

c) Math: The M5 thread has a 0.8mm pitch. That means for every revolution the fastener moves 0.8mm. How to use this information:
• your fastener is too short: add 0.8mm for every extra revolution you would like to add. For instance, if you only got 2 revolutions with your 8mm flat head fastener, you’d like to add about 2.5 more revolutions (2.5×0.8mm =2mm) so add 2mm to the length of the fastener: a 10mm flat head is the correct fastener.

d) Repeat. It is likely that you will need more than one fastener length for your bindings even if the head type is the same, so again check every hole.

Note: please realize that when ordering your fasteners, the length of socket and pan head fasteners refer to only the thread, while the length of flat head fasteners refer to the entire fastener.
Check the download section of our website for the ever expanding chart of which fasteners (shown below) to try with your bindings.

Puder Luder, LLC • Denver Colorado • 720 291 9563 www.quiverkiller.com

Here is the current (11/25/11) Fastener Reference Chart from Quiver Killer:

The key to optimal glide is establishing and maintaining your ski’s or snowboard’s base structure, coupled with appropriate wax.

Often misunderstood is that simply waxing your bases and scrape smooth is all you need to do to protect your bases and achieve a good glide. Without ‘freeing’ your base structure (removing the wax from the base structure) you actually are likely to not fully benefit from the wax due to suction or surface tension that a mirror smooth base will produce.

So, to help you saturate, wax and prepare your bases for the fast approaching season, we are adding these items to help you get and maintain your items. By applying the coupon code: freestructure1209 , in the cart, you will receive 20% off throughout the month of December. Plus receive 5% worth Loyalty Points for future purchases. If you have Loyalty points, they will add to the savings! This will also compound with other coupons and discounts.

Included in the sale list are selected and shown in our TWS: This Week’s Steals section:

• Waxing & Tuning Kits
• Ski & Snowboard Vises
• Waxing Irons
• KUU-Roto-brushes
• KUU-Oval Brushes
• Briko-Maplus Hydrocarbon & Base Prep waxes
• Electric & Manual plastic scraper sharpeners
• SideWall Planer and Cutter
• Misc other items including base repair pistols

5 New Race Tuning Videos Featuring Willi Wiltz Added
5 new race tuning videos featuring renowned ski and snowboard technician Willi Wiltz have been added to the TokoVideos.com.  Willi serviced Tommy Moe, Daron Rahlves, and Bode Miller to their medals and biggest successes.  Additionally, Willi has worked with snowboarders Nate Holland and Shaun Palmer with great results too.  Learn from the best at your own pace at TokoVideos.com

Video Index

Metal Edges (Alpine Skis and Snowboards)

Cross Country Skis

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Sporthill Portable Sauna Set-up and Operating Instructions

Other than wax, your skis and snowboards must be completely dry before placing them in the Ski and Snowboard Sauna. This unit should only be used in a dry location. If the Ski and Snowboard Sauna becomes wet, let it dry completely before use or shock and injury may occur.

Slip the heat pad into the mesh pocket on the ceiling of bag. To protect the heating element, the silver side of the heat pad should be facing down towards the base of the skis. Loosen and lift the top bars so you can place your skis/snowboard onto the support bars. Set the top bars back in place. Position the thermostat wire to a position that’s directly above the base of your ski /snowboard in the center of the bag. Space the frame to avoid having the heat pad touch your skis or snowboard. Place the light weight steel end pieces inside the bag as far away from each other as possible (they help hold the roof up.) Plug the heat pad into the thermostat and the thermostat into a standard wall socket. Check the temperature setting on the thermostat. It should be preset to 121 F. Ski Sauna LLC recommends 121F. If it’s not set to 121 F simply press the set button on the thermostat and follow the instructions provided by Ranco. The thermostat has a cooling mode and a heating mode. It should be set on the heating mode (H1.)

The end of the thermostat should always be placed between the base of the ski or snowboard and the heating pad. Failure to do so could result in the heating pad overheating and may lead to damage of the heating pad or skis/snowboard.

Use a waxing iron to thoroughly coat the bottom of your skis or snowboard. With skis, keep the rubber band on from your waxing to hold the brakes down so they do not touch the heat pad. Check your skis or board a few times during the process to make sure that the entire base is covered with wax. Do not let the base become devoid of wax.

Contents:

• 1 insulated bag
• 1 carrying bag
• 1 thermostat
• 1 heat pad
• 12 button head screws
• 1 heavy duty rubber band to hold ski brakes down so they do not touch the heating pad
• 2 light weight steel end grames
• 4 steel plates
• 6 aluminum rods

Operating Instructions

1. Iron an ample coating of soft wax onto the ski base. Follow the wax manufacturers guidelines for iron heat settings. Do not scrape off wax.
2. Place ski, base side up, onto the rack system. Leave at least one inch (2 cm) between each ski for heat circulation. Snowboards should only be placed on the top two racks. If placed on the bottom rack they will impede proper heat circulation which could cause overheating near the heat source.
3. Set thermostat to 121 F (49.4 C.) Thermostat instructions are included. Do not set thermostat above 121 F (49.4 C.)*
4. Position the wired thermometer to hang near the center of the Ski Sauna. Plastic ties are provided.
5. Zip Ski Sauna closed and plug it into a standard AC outlet.
6. Check skis each hour. Do not let any part of the base of the ski become dry, apply more wax if needed.
7. Skis should remain in the Ski Sauna for 2 to 4 hours. A standard on/off timer can also be used by simply plugging the Ski Sauna into the timer, and the timer into the AC outlet. Follow the timer manufacturer’s instructions for timer use.
8. After the desired time has elapsed, remove and let skis cool; then follow the wax manufacturer’s guideline for scraping, brushing, and other final preparatory steps.

The appropriate race day wax can be used with traditional ironing procedures or in conjunction with the Ski Sauna treatment.

* Temperatures above recommended level may result in damage to equipment. Ski Sauna, LLC and SportHill, Inc are not responsible for damages caused by improper use.

Designed and produced in the USA by SportHill
725 McKinley Street, Eugene, Oregon 97402
800-622-8444

Ski Sauna is a trademark of Ski Sauna, LLC and is distributed by SportHill, Inc.