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SlideWright Newsletters

Newsletter-3-29-17: It’s Spring time! Hike or Bike for Turns??

With 4 feet of recent snows in the High Country, fair weather, clear roads and trails below, all options are on the table. Check our clearance deals on waxes, tools for Skis, Snowboards & Bikes.

 

Newsletter-2-24-17 -Spring Structure Durable Wax Time

A coarser base structure will increase glide and reduce ‘stickiness’ in wet snows. Hydrophobic low fluoro wax additives also increase glide in wet snow and higher humidity.

Newsletter 1-28-17-Cold Powder is Better with Cold Wax

To play in the deep, fluffy white stuff, you dream about all year. Cold Wax is the added ‘spice’ to ehhance even those moments.

Efficient Tuning & Waxing Set-up = Less Time & Better Results

Start with a Work Area

Ideally, a dedicated shop, work bench or table area will enable the DIYer to bang out repairs & structuring, edge tuning, binding mounts & waxing more conveniently and efficiently. If a work system isn’t convenient, you’ll be less inclined to keep your gear running at their peak performance levels.

Not everyone has the space or option for a dedicated work area. But, developing a system to quickly and easily set up, break down and store one where you can. Following are some key factors to consider:

  • Mess containment
  • Good Lighting and power
  • Good Vise or other ski & snowboard support
  • Tool Storage and access
  • Tool maintenance-keeping your tools tuned
  • Temperature-boards need to be warm for repairs & waxing
Read More

Heating and Molding Intuition Ski Boot Liners

put foot in heated liner before placing in bootUPDATE: We are pleased to announce Intuition Boot Liners are now available from SlideWright.com.

True to DIYer form, trial and error (sometimes lots of errors) lead to a better understanding of ‘do’s and don’ts’. Molding Intuition Boot Liners was not excepted. After reading and viewing Intuition, Scarpa, SVST and DIY techniques and ideas, we set out to experiment with new Intuition Pro Tour liners from Scarpa Maestrale AT boots to discover and illustrate the pitfalls of home oven backing vs heat gun hot air approaches. A ‘modified conventional oven boot liner baking’ approach appears to be a reliable and safe for good boot to foot fitting. Especially for ovens without enough height to stand the liners on their bottoms.

scaled liner vs sound linerConventional Oven Baking: The first attempt was to place a liner on it’s side, in a 240° non-convection oven on wood supports instead of directly on the oven racks. After 5 minutes the oven, which was on, scorched and wrinkled the side of the liner where it was in contact with the wood. Big mistake and bummer! Though unsightly, functionally the liner is fine. Time will tell how long this remains true. The wood conducted high heat too readily from the concentrated heat from the lower baking element. With this older oven, the temperature of the elements probably need to far exceed the target oven temperature to generate enough heat for the whole oven to reach and maintain the 240°. A reasonable assumption is that a convention oven would be superior to conventional ovens.

240 heat gun for 12 minutesHot Air Gun: The second test was to keep the liners in the shell and utilize a digital heat gun with high output and reliable temperature control for 12 minutes to assimilate an Intuition blower heater. Care was made to make sure the nozzle did not touch the interior of the liner while driving heat to the toe area. It is desirable option since it reduces steps, time and needed care and effort to place a floppy, hot liner into difficult boot shells. This straight forward approach achieved an OK fit, but the exterior of the boot remained cold and did not mold to the shell. For many, this technique may be more than acceptable for basic boot fitting. It also could be utilized for minor spot heating and tweaks. For instance, if the toes fit well, but there is a small issue around the instep, the toe area could be stuffed with a sock or other insulating area, to focus the heat only on the problem area. Additionally, a longer heat application may provide better results.

left backed right heat gunThe liner on the left was baked in an oven, while the one on the right was heated with a heat gun. Note that the heat gun approach had no effect on the liner’s exterior.

Hot Rice: Similar to the heat gun approach with liners in boots, placing rice in an old sock and microwaving to achieve desired heat is an option (though not tested) that may be more desirable and convenient. Make sure to get the rice all the way into the toe area in the liner.

Hot Water: Boiling water in a collapsible water bottle can also provide lower temperature heat for minor adjustments, but probably is not the best option for fully heating the liner’s interior for proper molding.

added mass keeps oven at 240° after 12 minutesModified Conventional oven boot liner baking: As noted previously, it appears that a conventional oven’s heating element produces higher heat than which is desirable and practical to avoid liner damage and even heating inside and out. By adding mass to the equation, a more controllable and even temperature can be maintain for the time frame needed. Four, 6 x 6x 3/8″ ceramic tiles provided sufficient mass to keep the oven temperature 240° for 12 minutes in our tests after the oven was turned off to avoid high heat issues. (Rubber ‘pads’ where placed on the tiles to avoid direct contact with the liners as a precaution.) Though the 12 minutes was a little arbitrary of a time frame, it did appear to be sufficient for our molding purposes. Longer or shorter may be fine for others.

footbedBasic Liner Molding Steps:  While the liners were heated, 1/8″, adhesive backed boot fitting pads were cut to allow more room at known pressure points. This was coupled with toe caps and a thin sock.

footbed ready for sockIf a foot bed was desired, it could also be placed on the foot before putting on the sock. In the interest of gram counting, the foot bed was omitted for this round to also see how well the Intuition bottoms support the foot on their own. Silicone spray was used to lubricated the shell interiors.

place sock over toe caps pads and footbedAfter the timer for the baking liner chimed, placing the sock with pad(s), foot bed and toe cap was placed in the liner, before being placed in the shell, while pulling upward on the liner multiple times. (See 1st image.)

lightly buckle boot and place toe on board for 10 minutesAfter lightly buckling the boot, knocking the boot heel helps to set the heel into the liner. Place the toe on a board and stand on the boot in a neutral position for ten minutes.

Afterwards, remove the foot from the boot. Take out the pad, caps and foot bed (if used) from the sock. Again, if used, place the foot bed in the liner after it is placed in the shell. Test the fit of boot and tweak as needed.

Read More

SkiVisions Base Flattener & Structuring Plane

(Updated 11/2/12: Revised instruction and NEW instruction videos at the bottom of the page)

A ski base must be flat for optimum ski performance.  The SkiVisions Base Flattener is a powerful planing tool designed to quickly flatten and structure a ski base with a minimum of expertise, effort and potential for error.  (Patent # 4,884,343)

Is base flattening and structuring with the SkiVisions Base Flattener expensive?  NO!  It is true that you have to make the initial capital investment in the tool and inserts, but thereafter all inserts are re-sharpenable an infinite number of times and RARELY need replacement.  We show you how.

What is unique about the SkiVisions Base Flattener?  It is the only effective hand tool ever produced that provides a superior alternative to stone grinding or flat filing.

Why is this uniqueness important?

  • Flat bases are a critical element for properly tuned skis
  • Convex (base high) bases are rounded and the edges will act dull
  • Concave (edge high) bases will make the edges grabby

How is the uniqueness accomplished?

The Base Flattener is a large and powerful planing tool that can eat either plastic alone or plastic and edge metal, depending on the blade used.

The Ruby Stone Blades (see description below) are 6 inches long and come in  medium and coarse grits for different structures cut into the base plastic while you are flattening it.  The Ruby Stone Blades require no skill to use.  Since they cannot cut metal to any significant degree, you cannot cause problems that aren’t easily corrected.

The steel blade requires some skill and care when using it, but it is a powerful blade that can slice through steel and plastic on ski bases simultaneously and can be re-sharpened an infinite number of times (see “Stone/Steel Inserts Maintenance).  However, we now prefer using the File Base Flattener on metal edges and just use the steel blade for final finish on the p-tex.

How to use the Base Flattener

The Base Flattener is a push tool which means you push it down the ski base from behind the tool.

The Base Flattener is pushed in the tip to tail direction only. Use only light pressure with the steel blade, moderate pressure with the Ruby Stone Blades. Use overlapping strokes and pull the tool back between strokes.  The primary pressure is applied with your back hand on the large hump. The front hand on the small hump is primarily there to guide and control the tool.

Look at the picture to the right closely and you will notice that the stone blade is lifted off the ski base, yet the front black glide bar is still on the ski.  We recommend that when you are pulling the Base Flattener back in the backstroke that you leave the front of the tool on the ski base, but that you pick up the back of the tool slightly so that the blade does not touch the ski base at all during the backstroke phase.

You will not make hairs on your base if you make sure that the blade is not touching the base on the backstroke.  You will make base hairs if you pressure the tool on the backstroke.  DON’T PRESSURE THE BACKSTROKE!

The Ruby Stone Blades only cut base plastic when the grit is exposed, the grit  gets quickly clogged with base plastic and the stone needs to be cleaned frequently by brushing with the brass brush which comes with the Base Flattener.  Always clean the wax from your base with wax remover before using the Ruby Stone Blade as wax will clog the grit more readily than will polyethylene.

The 6 Inch Ruby Stone Blades

The Ruby Stone Blades are completely different from the old stone blades. They are sharper, more powerful, easier to use, produce far better results, leave an incredibly clean and hair free base, and can be re-sharpened numerous times, which re-sharpening returns them to near new performance.  If they are sharpened so many times they no longer fit in the tool, folded paper shims can be made so they can still be used.  They have a very long usable life.

The Ruby Stone Blades come in medium and coarse.  The tool comes standard with the medium grit blade, the coarse blades are accessories.  Which blade is best for you?  See Base Structuring Decisions below, which also describes varying the amount of structure each blade imparts on the ski base based on the amount of pressure applied to the Base Flattener.  Also, note the lines at each side of the stone. They are critical to how the blade is positioned in the Base Flattener and how it is re-sharpened according to the instructions below.  (See Stone/Steel Inserts Maintenance)

The coarse blade is primarily used for efficiently removing plastic from a convex (base high) base.  It is a very aggressive blade and should be followed with the steel blade to de-structure the base.

The new Ruby Stone Blades are aluminum oxide stones, the highest quality aluminum oxide grit there is, and they have two unique characteristics that make them particularly effective.  First the grit is much sharper than standard aluminum oxide so they cut more rapidly.  Second, the grit fractures to new sharp points, much like the diamond grit on a fine diamond file, so that when the Ruby Stones are re-sharpened, their performance remains consistent with (although not quite as sharp) as a brand new stone, the sharp new points being replenished every time it is sharpened. They take only minutes to re-sharpen, which also re-flattens them,  so doing it frequently really pays. They are, quite frankly, the best of all worlds.

The Ruby Stone Blades give skis better performance than stone grinding.  Why? One of the important aspects of sintered polyethylene bases is that they are porous. The porosity naturally allows the base to absorb more ski wax, and it helps reduce surface tension thereby increasing glide.  Because a Ruby Stone cuts the polyethylene so cleanly, the pores are left open.  Stone grinding, on the other hand, causes the polyethylene to move laterally (smear or creep) on the base due to the speed and pressure of the stone, resulting in the pores getting partially covered up with plastic “creep”.

Using the Ruby Stones is a “no-brainer” approach to base flattening and structuring.  Just keep them off the metal edges, which cause them to wear excessively.  You can feel when the stone is on the metal edge, use the steel blade or the SkiVisions Ski Sharp to bevel the edge before continuing with the Ruby Stone, or better yet, use the File Base Flattener to bring the steel edge flush to the base.

Also, when the ski is convex (base high), always flatten it with the Ruby Stones, never the steel blade, the steel blade is for concave skis when you want to take down metal, or the File Base Flattener.  The coarse stone blade is the most efficient and effective insert when taking down a  base high convex base.

Always clean the wax off your base with wax remover before using the Ruby Stones, wax will clog the grit.

Base Structuring Decisions

What is structure on a ski base?  It is the process of roughening it to reduce surface tension.  If your base is very smooth, surface tension, simply put, is suction from a lack of air between the base and the snow, which slows its glide.  Very smooth bases tend to be very slow bases.

As a general rule, you want to use the coarsest structure to minimize surface tension because rougher surfaces have less surface tension.  However, it isn’t that simple.  New snow crystals are sharp and will dig into a coarse structure causing considerable drag.  The rules need to be followed:

1.  In new, cold snow the structure needs to be fine. The newer and colder the snow, the finer the structure.

2.  As snow gets older, the crystal points start breaking down,  so you can then go to a medium structure.

3.  As snow goes through multiple freeze and thaw cycles the crystals lose their sharpness and so a coarse structure works best.

A simple rule to follow is to use medium stones in early and mid-winter, medium and coarse structures in late winter and early spring.  If the medium structure is too coarse for very cold fresh snow, just de-structure with the steel blade.  (See Tuning Routines)

Using your true bar

A true bar is a critical, must have ski tuning tool, it is used to inspect ski base flatness.  They are easy to use but you must have a strong background light to “read” the base.  We like inexpensive drafting lamps where the light can be focused at the tip.  Tip the true bar up on edge as seen in the picture when reading base flatness.

As long as you have a decent true bar and a strong background light, reading your base is very simple and obvious.

If a ski is flat, there will be a solid, unwavering light band across the width of the base. It will be very obvious that is it flat.

If the ski is concave, there will be a greater amount of light coming through at the center of the base than at the ski edges (“edge high”).  This will be very obvious.

If the ski is convex so that the base in the center of the ski is higher than the edges (“base high”), the light band will be more narrow at the center of the base, wider over the edges. The Ruby Stone Blade is used to correct the convexity.

Keep in mind that you can also observe your base flatness just by the structure pattern.  If it is consistent the entire base, it is flat.  Inconsistencies disclose high or low spots and are generally easy to see.

Advanced Techniques:

BASE WAVES:

It is common for ski bases to have waves on them, and stone grinding will not remove them because the stone rides up and down with the waves. The waves have to be cut off from an angle.  Also, they cannot be seen.  If you use the Base Flattener at an angle as shown in the picture, you will find there is more drag in certain spots than others. Those spots with extra drag are base waves.  As you continue to make additional passes on the base you will find the drag at that point becomes progressively less and that finally it disappears, the wave is removed.
SKIP MARKS:

Skip marks can ONLY be put in the base with the steel blades, NEVER the Ruby Stone Blades. Skip marks are caused by

  • pushing the tool down the base with too much speed
  • pushing on the tool with excessive pressure
  • using a blade that is too dull, it needs sharpening
  • The base is too smooth and slick, roughen it with the Ruby Stone
  • Trying to do too much work too quickly
  • you have a rock hardened/damaged edge section next to the mark

You won’t put in skip marks if you keep the blade nice and sharp and use the tool with a lighter touch, letting the tool do the job rather than over-muscling it. If you have a rock hardened/damaged section it needs to be polished out with the Ski Sharp Stones before flattening with the steel blade.

If you do put in skip marks, they won’t damage the performance of your skis. They just don’t look very good.  To remove, angle the Base Flattener and use the Ruby Stones, the angle used coming from the opposite angle as the skip marks in the base, they have to be cut off from a cross-angle.

Due to the curvature of the ski at tip and sometimes at tail (flip tail skis) using the Ruby Stone Blade by hand can sometime work better than in the Base Flattener.  Just keep the blade up on edge and follow the contour of the base to get a uniform structure across the width.

If your ski is very concave it is best to use the File Base Flattener, the steel blade is best kept for fine detail work rather than using it for heavy work.

It is VERY IMPORTANT to polish off the burr that is left whenever you work on metal ski edges, a burr makes the skis over-sharp and dangerous. We recommend the SkiVisions Ski Sharp for such purpose, or you can polish the edges by hand with a stone.

The steel blade falls from the tool when the retaining screws are loosened. It is sharp and heavy and should be done over your bench carefully.

Maintain a firm grip on the tool when running it off the tail of the ski so you don’t drop it.

Keep your fingers on the tool and out of the way of the sharp metal ski edges.  Your ski must be held in a ski vise when using the Base Flattener.

(Note: reprinted from SkiVisions with permission.)

The following videos relate to using the Base Flattener and maintaining the cutting inserts:

SkiVisions Flattening bases with the Base Flattener Part 1

SkiVisions Flattening bases with the Base Flattener Part 2

SkiVisions Maintaining Cutting Inserts, Base Flattener Stones, HS Steel Bar & Files

Read More

Prepping for Sweet Corn & Crust

One of life’s simple pleasures is getting out for skate skiing, touring or making turns on a warming bluebird day, with an inch or so of wet sweet corn on firm crust or solid base. Spring & summer predawn hikes on crust to harvest morning corn is right up there.

The best corn comes after a freeze of transformed, wet snow from the day before. The snow is no longer flakes or crystals, but saturated ice ‘kernels’ known as frozen corn. Depending on timing, aspect and other factors, this can start out like a coral reef, a very abrasive crust, sun-cupped, or ‘icy’, among other consistencies. As it melts and transforms again to wet corn, how do you prepare your boards to perform well all day in these variable conditions?

If you wax with a warmer & softer wax for the warmer, wet conditions, you can easily wear off the wax on highly abrasive, colder snows, while you wait for conditions to moisten and soften (or not). If you wax with cold wax, you may miss out on the best glide and enjoyment when it becomes prime time.

One option is to simply wait until conditions soften and you hit it when the conditions are best and wax accordingly. This may be easier said than done for some and as the unreliable weather can change, this plan may backfire.

We’ve found the best balance between ideal wax temperatures for glide and abrasive snows is to start with an aggressive base structure, wax with a very durable mid and broad temperature base liquid or solid wax like Briko-Maplus BP1 Violet or Colder and harder BP1 Blue or Green, and top it with a warm temp Low Fluoros like Briko-Maplus Universal Hot or LP2.

The base structure doesn’t seem to matter relative to the coarse, frozen snow, but makes a huge difference when the snow becomes saturated by channeling water and reducing suction. The durable base wax provides a longer and better protection for the bases and runs very well in a wide range of condition if the softer wax wears off. Depending on how the day goes, the LF wax may be perfect for the entire day and will provide an extra bump in glide.

Additionally, since it is a softer wax, it can easily be reapplied if desired or necessary by crayoning/rubbing on solids, wiping on cream/paste or liquids, or spraying (most convenient and durable option) high-melt waxes and then corking and polishing with a brush.

If you are concerned about an aggressive base structure and temperatures and snow type reverting towards colder, the harder waxes can be still utilized, but not brushed out of the structure as much as when you need the structure for water channeling. This will effectively ‘moderate’ the base structure to closer match the colder snows.

Read More

Summer Storage Waxing after Pond Skimming

pond_skimmingNow that you skimmed the pond due to proper waxing and technique (and hopefully not your good gear) 😉 , it’s usually a sign for most that it’s time to put your boards in storage.

Following is a recent bulletin from Toko:

TECH BULLETIN
Source: Toko Brand Management Office, Heber City, UT info@TokoUS.com 866-TOKO-USA

Here are Toko’s recommendations for storage waxing of skis. First clean the
skis well. This can be done with wax remover or by simply brushing the bases
out well with a copper brush depending on how dirty they are. Then drip on a
generous amount of NF or LF Red. Iron it in making sure that there is enough
wax to provide a thick layer on the base and that the iron is hot enough to ensure
a good bond between the wax and the base. This ironing procedure is normal,
but sometimes a person rushes through storage waxing and the wax is not really
heated outside of that it becomes liquid. The ski bases often times don’t even
become warm. This will result in air between the base and the ski and less
protection.
Red is our choice for storage waxing as Blue is so hard that it is more difficult to
make sure that there is no air between the ski and base and Yellow is so soft that
it gets “eaten away” quicker. NF or LF Red is perfect because their consistency
is perfect.
If waxing Alpine skis, slop the wax over the edges and cover them too.
A SUMMARY:
1. Brush skis out well with Copper Brush
2. Iron in System3 Red or LF Red making sure adequate wax is used and
that the wax is heated in well.

See the Toko Information Center for more tips and helpful hints.

In addition to the aforementioned rationale for using a medium temperature wax versus soft/warm temperature wax for storage, it is more likely that it will be appropriate for the initial snow temps you’ll encounter next fall than the soft. In the fall/early winter, for those wishing to minimize extra steps, time and expense, you might be good to go by simply scraping, brushing.

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Waxing for the Week Ahead

Screen Shot 2016-01-15 at 2.31.50 PMThe San Juans of Colorado can have an air temperature change of up to 30 degrees/per day when the intense sun is out and depending on the aspect. When storm or weather systems flow through it can be over 50 degrees in a week, along with broad relative humidity swings. Waxing for the Week Ahead can drive you nuts if you enjoy optimal glide and are trying to determine what wax to use to achieve your goals, especially several days out for a trip or to not have to wax again until after several outings. Fortunately, the snow temperature changes at a much slower rate.

Screen Shot 2016-01-15 at 2.29.07 PM

Screen Shot 2016-01-15 at 2.29.23 PM

Fortunately, wax companies like Briko-Maplus & Toko base their wax temperature system on snow temperature which fluctuates far less dramatically. The downside is determining what the snow temperature will be.

I’ve had pretty good luck focusing on the overnight low trends and using a wax bracketing or below the low temperature forecasts. Generally, it is better to err towards colder than warmer waxes. To bump it up a notch, also considering the humidity level is also worthwhile. Also, the Briko-Maplus, among other waxes do perform well outside of their stated optimal temperature ranges. Experimenting over time will help you decide on what seems to work best for you. That said, everyone loves a ‘one size fits all’/’silver bullet’/all-temp answer, but like all-mountain skis, it may never be just right for any given set of conditions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ask yourself, ‘What is the typical low temperatures during the night?’ Use that as a ‘guide’ for snow temperatures. Get the wax or waxes that are optimal for that range, test drive and then tweak. If you are willing to spend all the time, energy and expense dialing in your quiver, why night dial in a wax quiver to optimize the performance of your gear and outings where your boards meet the snow. The higher the grade of wax, the higher the durability and could last over a handful of days, depending on how aggressive the snow is and the amount of vertical.

Relative to the above Forecast for the Low Temperatures and Humidity, the following options I’d consider the following options:

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Base Cleaning Hot Scrape or Cleaner??

(FAQ)
There is a school of thought that base cleaners/wax removers should never be used on the ski bases and hot scraping is the only method to employ for cleaning ski and snowboard bases. The thinking is cleaners will absolutely dry out the bases and destroy the wax saturation level and optimal glide achieved through repetitive wax cycles. How much wax is removed is highly variable from zero to a fair amount depending on duration, how aggressive is the cleaner and how much brushing and elbow grease is applied.

This is an ‘old wives tale’ or hearsay at work (that endlessly gets perpetuated on the internet and via word of mouth) when it comes to the debate over using cleaners vs. hot scraping with a soft wax. From a technical standpoint sintered bases are basically inert and do not bond well with anything. The surface of the base in contact with the snow is amorphous and random in nature. Structuring the base creates lines in the base material and establishes a pattern, but the underlying material is still amorphous and random.

Wax (or base cleaner for that matter) only penetrates a very small amount into the base, about 15 microns and only where random voids exist. 15 microns is a very small measurement (1% or so of base thickness~15 to 20 microns is about 0.0006 to 0.0008 inch). How can base cleaner possibly “dry out” the base if it only penetrates 15 microns? The answer quite simply is it doesn’t. Base cleaner, or at least Briko-Maplus base cleaner is basically detergent dissolved in a solvent. The solvent almost entirely evaporates and the detergent works to properly clean the base. When you take your dirty car to a car wash do you wax it first or clean it with detergent and then wax it? I’ve tried both and the later definitely seems to work better.

A distinction should be made between paraffin and perfluorinated waxes. A specific base cleaner called Fluorclean should be used to remove perfluorinated waxes as it is designed to remove all traces of fluorine from the base. Hot scraping at best blends new wax with a combination of old wax and contaminants in the old wax. I admit you will notice some contaminants being drawn out of the base when hot scraping if the base is dirty, but the iron is not a magnet and does not magically remove all contaminants using wax as a conduit. Residual wax left on the base after hot scraping will still have undesirable stuff in it.

Additionally, duration and type of cleaners can be employed judiciously to expedite and provide clean bases, ready for the next coat of wax. The longer a wax remover or solvent sits on the base, the more it can cut into the wax and any contaminates. Also, a more aggressive cleaner can also be used to remove the surface contaminants in little time and use of materials while eliminating the hot scraping steps and mess. Diluted (1:5) household cleaners like Simple Green can provide adequate cleaning. Biodegradable citrus based cleaners can be great options for cleaning the base and removing wax when harsher solvent based cleaners are not needed or desired. For base repairs, base cleaners are necessary, coupled with some sanding and cutting of the base material.

So, back to the original question. The best way to clean the bases is the method that is best for you, your preferences, time available, costs or beliefs: either hot scraping, base cleaner or a combination. If you are concerned about base cleaner remnants on the base, you can also hot scrape afterwards or simply wipe off with water.

A caveat to keep in mind is that skis and snowboards tend to run better and faster after more wax cycles and time on the snow. So, more aggressive cleaning would require more wax cycles to optimize the glide than a less aggressive, more topical cleaning.

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Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Telluride Snow LevelAfter a snow storm it’s always good to find out ‘how much they received’. Here are Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras which are periodically updated to see how much has accumulation. Many are date stamped and are cleared at various times of the day. Some do it at 4pm, others at 4:30 and so on. The accumulation is since their last clear off. Telluride has a conveyor belt on a timer which is pretty trick. By checking during a storm you can get a sense of the rate of the snowfall.

Please let us know if you find that any of these do not load or know of other camera URLs. If a snow stake cam is not available, we’ve included snow report links. Some images may not load even after this page is refreshed. You may need to ‘view image’ by right clicking or selecting control/view image, or click on the source link above. Some images have time stamps and other hints there is something inconsistent if the image shows sun at night or dark during the day.

Here is summary of Colorado Ski Resort Conditions Open Trails 

Arapahoe Basin Ski Area

Aspen/Snowmass- Elk Camp

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Aspen-Snowmass

Beaver Creek- Spruce Saddle

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Beaver Creek

Breckenridge- Base of 6 Chair

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Breckenridge

Copper Mountain Resort Live Feed & Timelapse Snow Stake Cams

Crested Butte- High lift

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Crested Butte

Eldora Mountain Resort

Keystone Ski Resort-North Peak
image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Keystone

Loveland Snow Camera

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Loveland

Monarch Snow Report

Powderhorn Mountain Resort

Purgatory Snow Camera

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Purgatory

Sunlight Ski Area

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Sunlight

Steamboat- top of Sundown Express

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Steamboat

Telluride- Prospect Bowl- 10,900 ft

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Telluride

Vail- Blue Sky Basin

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Vail

Winter Park – Dog Patch trees

image of Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras-Winter Park-Colorado Ski Resorts Powder Level Cameras

Wolf Creek Ski Area Snow Report

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Hone Ski and Snowboard Edges Sharp and Smooth with Diamond Stones

Hone Ski and Snowboard Edges Sharp and Smooth with Diamond StonesTools4Boards has just put out their second generation of Hone Ski and Snowboard Diamond Files & Duo Hone Diamond files. With a choice of two diamond grits, one on each side, the Tools4Boards Hone Duos are a unique option for ski & snowboard edge tuning. There is a very nice feel and feedback from the rigid cast aluminum backs. This is a sweet edge tuning option. Hone Ski and Snowboard Edges Sharp & Smooth with Diamond Stones is better than using metal files for routine maintenance. Files remove too much material, and are less forgiving than diamond files (aka diamond stones). Diamonds can be used in either direction. The progression from coarse to finer grits cuts and the polishes the edges to a smooth, sharp, consistent and longer lasting edge than a file will. This, without creating an irregular, short lived, burr sharp edge that files create. This is similar and desirable much like when you hone a knife sharp and smooth.

Another nice option is that the Tools4Boards Hone Diamond Strips can be replaced if and when they wear out. This is also somewhat unique. Instead of tossing out a used up diamond file and purchasing a new one, old strips can be heated and scraped off to make room for lower cost new diamond strips.

Following is a video from Tools4Boards on using the Hone Diamond Files to sharpen and polish edges:

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Base Prep, Brushing and Edge Bevels

From -Toko: Base Prep, Brushing and Edge Bevels Cheever and Willi Witz

Cheever on Base Prep and Brushing
Hello everyone, I wanted to do a myth busting eblast series. But I need to consult with the man before I attempt to blow everyones` mind. So instead for this early season eblast I want to talk about some base preparation and brushing. I should say, what I do for base prep and brushing…

My early season riding isn’t much different than most skiers and snowboarders. I’m on a glacier with varying conditions and trying to mimic racing as much as possible.

This time of the year usually calls for getting on a fast enough base that you can come close as possible to race speeds, but not slow down an actual race base. If you have the luxury of running a practice base… Awesome. But many people don’t, so you’ll be on your racers…or techs will be tuning racers.

It’s not quite panic time yet to worry about a structure you should have done a few weeks ago. With enough prep, your base will be brought to speed quickly. So it’s okay to carefully get on that racer. What I like to do with my race bases is make sure the wax is durable.
Duh… Put cold wax on the edges… But there is more to it.

Wax bonds to your base. Wax also bonds to other wax. My preseason routine is more than scraping off yellow then. Throwing on blue for durability.

I love toko red and the HF red. But let’s just stick with NF for now. Red can run in all conditions this time of the year. But more importantly it’s on my base as a bonder for any other temperature wax I’ll use for training. Before my snowboard gear is off I brush then iron on red. For my trainer board, I am comfortable just running with the red. But when I want to pull out a race deck, my routine starts the same with the red after I get off the hill, but I check my weather forecast and figure out what wax I want to bond with that red.

Say Pitztal is calling for colder weather and I am going to be in a blue/red range for tomorrow. I have my red on and methodically remove it.

Scrape. I scrape all the wax off. Scrape excess wax off my scrapers. ScotchBrite my scrapers clean so there is no gummy residue.

Brush step 1. Steely Dan. Toko’s oval steel brushes do the trick quite well for pulling the excess wax your scraper didn’t get and start pulling the residue from the structure of your base.

Brush step 2. Roto Horse hair. If you are subscribed to a toko eblast, I hope you have access to a roto brush. If not, I suggest investing. I use NO water for any roto brushing. The horse hair pulls most of the wax out of the base that you don’t need and leaves what you do need behind.

Brush step 3. Roto bronze. Now my roto bronze is used and is quite soft. It isn’t as aggressive as my horse hair, plus it’s used at a slower drill speed. No water here or for any roto brushing because water acts as a lubricant for brushing. If you want to pull excess wax out, the most efficient way to do it is without water.

Brush step 4. The grey toko board roto. This brush will remove just about any remnants that will slow me down and will leave what I need bonding to the board

Brush step 5. Toko’s black nylon roto. You want to polish that base and make it shine.

Brush step 6. If you have a paint brush, new of course, kicking around. Clean the tip and tail of your stick as they probably collected excess from brushing.

Step 7. Fiberlene. This final step microstructures your wax and cleans up excess junk left on the surface of your base.

Now that you know how I brush… Maybe after you put your next layer on try my method… Now I put on my red/blue combo for the next day. Repeat everything over once the wax is ready to be scraped. Roto brushing expedites the process and is more efficient than brushing by hand.

Go fast in training and faster racing,
Cheever
US Ski and Snowboard Tuning Legend Willi Wiltz on Prepping New Skis and Snowboards

US Ski and Snowboard Serviceman Legend Willi Wiltz on What Base and Edge Bevels to Use

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Measuring for Binding Screws, Drill Bits and Taps

DSC05554Whether you lost a screw, adding shims, have a tear out or want to swap bindings between multiple skis, we have any array of ski binding screw options to help you do it yourself.

Please note it is impossible for us be on top of every screw head type, length, shims, cants, rail system, and nuances for every binding and situation. So please try to resolve screw by going through the steps below issues prior to calling or emailing.
See more Binding Topics for more insights on mounting, binding and screw questions.

The Binding Freedom machine screw chart is a reference that may help you compare lengths and head types.

Here are some tips to help you answer your own questions regarding Drill Bits:

  • By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions. If there are no drill sizes provided on the ski (ie, custom skis), contacting the manufacturer for their recommendations is your best course of action. If unsure, drill with 3.5mm diameter tip. If metal is present, then use a 4.1mm bit.
  • The general rule on alpine ski drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
  • The outside diameter of an alpine screw thread is just over 5mm. The inside diameter of the screw thread (shank) is just over 4mm which matches the tip of a 4.1 diameter bit. Softer materials such as wood or plastic will compress when driving a screw into a 3.5mm hole. Non-compressible materials like metal and carbon should be drilled with the larger diameter, 4.1mm hole so the shank does not compress and damage the material while being driven into the ski.
  • Binding Freedom & Quiver Killer stainless steel inserts & heli-coils require a 1/4″ tipped bit.
  • The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4″. Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
  • It is better to err towards a longer tip than one shorter than the embedded screw section length so the bindings can lay tight to the ski.
  • Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
  • The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.
  • Long shank alpine drill bits are 1 3/4″ (4.5cm) longer than standard bits for use mounting jigs and drill guides.

 

Here are some tips to help you answer your own questions regarding measuring Binding Screws:

  • Screws are relatively cheap and can be modified to some degree. Order additional lengths and types if in doubt.
  • Flathead Screws are measured from tip to top. Pan heads, buttons and sockets are measured from tip to bottom of the head.
  • Older skis probably used longer screws as the skis were thicker and newer skis typically require shorter screws.
  • The thread pitch is unique to binding screws and optimized for skis and snowboards. A typical hardware store machine screw is NOT a recommended alternative.
  • Tapping metal top sheets or mounting plates is highly recommended. Some also recommend tapping non-metal top sheets.
  • Glue can fill in a deeper hole than screw length.
  • Minimum screw depth is 6mm/4 thread bite into ski, Typical hole drilling depths required by ski manufacturer range from 7.5 to 9.5mm. Look for recommended drill depth on the ski or manufacturer’s literature.
  • The alpine screw heads are 10mm and can be ground to a smaller diameter. Place the screw in a plastic anchor in a drill chuck. Secure the drill and while spinning the screw, hold a stone or diamond against the head.
  • If you need longer screws, stainless steel inserts for M5 x .8mm pitch machine screws are an excellent option

Alternatives and procedures for measuring. Calipers are best and have depth gauges. Measure depth of toothpick, nail, screw, etc inserted into :

  • Measure existing screw if available
  • Measure existing hole diameters
  • Measure thickness of binding at screw location
  • Place screws in bindings to help determine binding thickness and screw projection
  • Measure hole depths.
  • Is the screw a flathead, tapered or have a shoulder (panhead)?
  • Place non-alpine screws with similar heads types into bindings as measuring aids.

 

Here are some tips to help you answer your own questions regarding measuring Alpine, Stainless Steel Inserts & Heli Coil Taps:

  • Tapping skis with metal and carbon top sheets using a 12AB tap is recommended. Tapping all holes regardless of topsheet type or drill tip diameter is recommended. The same tap works for 3.5mm & 4.1mm diameter holes.

 

alpine_inserts_taps4

 

(More to come)

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Not much has really changed since 1941

The more things change, the more things remain the same…..but get more complicated and expensive.

For training USA mountain troops in 1941. In this segment, we learn how to choose the proper ski length, how to choose and take care of boots, how to adjust bindings, how to care for ski edges and ski bottoms. Alan Ladd is one of the recruits.

 This clip from the Classic Film: The Basic Principles of Skiing

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SlideWright Supports CAIC to Help Colorado Avalanche Forecasting

caic-2013CAIC, the Colorado Avalanche Information Center is funded by donations and is an important avalanche forecasting resource for backcountry skiers and snowboarders, along with other snow season backcountry users.

The purpose of the CAIC is to minimize the
economic and human impact of snow avalanches on recreation, tourism, commerce, industry and the citizens of Colorado. Since 1950 avalanches have killed more people in Colorado than any other natural hazard, and in the United States, Colorado accounts for one-third of all avalanche death.

Every year there is a Friends of CAIC benefit bash where
participants can support the CAIC by purchasing tickets, beers and place bids on auction items provided from many outdoor gear companies. SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools & Wares  is one company that believes in supporting the organization that all rely on to provide the best available weather and avalanche risk information for Colorado’s backcountry.

So step up and support the CAIC! Bid often on these items from SlideWright and others to help raise the funds needed for this important organization!

The Friends of CAIC are proud to announce the

8th Annual CAIC Benefit Bash

November 14, 2015
5 p.m. – 10 p.m.
Breckenridge Riverwalk Center
Tickets: http://www.breckcreate.org/event/caicbenefitbash/
Discount hotel rooms can be found at Beaver Run Resort
Please call 1-800-525-2253 and reference the CAIC Benefit Bash

caic_bb_poster

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Ski Binding Templates thanks to Powderguide

Bohrschablone_Marker_KingpinHow’s your German? Knut from Powderguide.com and Forum has been producing ski binding templates for a number of years. His list is pasted below. Check out their site for other information and thank him for his efforts.

It is highly recommended that you practice by drilling and mounting using old skis or a scrap wood board before drilling your skis. This also can help you confirm the templates are accurate. See a ski binding pro for proper release settings.

 

If you haven’t done so, please also check out the following topics before proceeding:

-Drilling Skis to Mount Bindings
-Finding Your Ski’s Centerline
-Paper Ski Binding Templates
-Drill and Tap Guides for Hand Drilling

Get yourself set up with Binding Mounting Tools, Screws, glues and supplies. If you’d rather use a jig versus dealing with the nuances and complexities of paper templates, check out the Jigarex Mounting Jigs.

The following is current as of 11/10/15. The links and available templates may not include any revisions to the templates or recent additions. Double check here if in doubt:

Alle:
Vergleich der Bohrlochpositionen für verschiedene Bindungen

Atomic:
FFG: siehe Salomon Alpinbindungen
Tracker: siehe Salomon Guardian
STH2 WTR: siehe Salomon

Fritschi:
Diamir (Freeride, Titanal etc. vor 2009/2010)
Freeride Pro & Eagle (für S & XL nicht getestet)
Vipec(noch nicht verifiziert)

Dynafit:
Vertical TLT, Speed
Radical
Radical 2.0(noch nicht verifiziert)
Beast 14
Beast 16

G3:
Onyx – siehe Dynafit Vertical TLT
Ion

Head:
siehe Tyrolia

Look: (siehe auch Rossignol)
Pivot (vor 2005)
PX
Pivot (Typ Rossi FKS)
PX Racing (noch nicht getestet)
(Achtung: nicht die alte Pivot/Axial mit der neuen Pivot/FKS verwechseln. Auch wenn die völlig unverständlicherweise bei Look gleich heissen, sind das zwei grundunterschiedliche Bindungen)

Marker:
Duke, Baron, Tour
Duke EPF
Jester, Griffon, Squire, Lord (inkl. Demo&Schizo)(für Schizo nicht getestet) -nicht für Schizo Frantic!
M Series
Free Ten & M11.0 TC EPS (für letztere nicht überprüft)
Kingpin

Naxo:
NX01, NX 21

Plum:
Guide -siehe Dynafit Vertical TLT (aber Vorsicht: Lochweiten-Toleranzen der Plum sind ein klein wenig anders!)

Rossignol:
Axial1
Axial2
FKS
Axial Race (noch nicht getestet)

Salomon:
alle Alpinbindungen bis 2013, aktuelle STH und Z Modelle
Guardian
STH2 und Warden
Rental SC
MTN(noch nicht verifiziert)

Scott:
siehe Salomon

Tyrolia:
alle Bindungen

Vist:
siehe (tlws.) Salomon

Feedback zu den Schablonen ist auch herzlich willkommen -und wenn es nur ein kurzes “hat alles gepasst” ist.

****************************************

Telemark-Bohrschablonen:

Black Diamond
O1 (Originalschablone des Herstellers)

G3:
Targa T9 (Originalschablone des Herstellers)
Targa Ascent (Originalschablone des Herstellers)

Rotefella:
NTN Freeride & Freedom (Originalschablone des Herstellers)

****************************************

Weitere Quellen für Bohrschablonen:

jondrums’ Schablonen im Tetongravity Forum

Schablonen auf bindingfreedom.com (grösstenteils identisch mit denen auf TGR)

wildsnow auf dieser exzellenten aber leider sehr unübersichtliche Seite gibt es auch Bohrschablonen. Leider gibt es keine Seite, auf der die Schablonen gesammelt wären. Man muss sie also einzeln suchen. Auch sind sie nicht die genauesten.

****************************************

Hersteller-bezogene Links mit nützlichen Informationen

Black Diamond:
Bindungspositionen für BD Ski – Alpin & telemark inkl. detaillierter Tipps für die Montage

Dynafit:
Montage- und Einstellungsanleitung des Herstellers 04/05
Montageanleitung auf wildsnow.com
FAQ auf wildsnow.com

Fritschi:
Bedienungsanleitung des Herstellers

G3:
Onyx Montage- und Installationsanleitung des Herstellers
Onyx Bedienungsanleitung des Herstellers

Look/Rossignol:
Bindungspositionen für S-Serie Ski
Binding Tech Manual 2014-15
Tipps zum Stopperaufbiegen von FKS/Pivot/Axial1 von campagnard auf freeskiers.net

Salomon:
Ski Binding Regulations, Shp Practices, Spare Parts & Manual 2015-16

Vist:
Montage- & Bedienungsanleitung des Herstellers

 

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JigaRex™ Universal Ski Binding Mount Jig System

UPDATE: Dynafit Radical 2.0 & Marker Kingpin Mount Plates are now available.

universal-ski-jigThe Pliny Equipment JigaRex Binding Jig System clamps to the side of skis and helps you quickly align the boot sole center on the ski mount point. JigaRex interchangeable binding plates are purchased separately for specific binding types and are easily seated on the Universal Jig for your favorite alpine, backcountry and telemark bindings.

Click here for the currently available binding plates.

Following are a few videos to show the basic function and operation of the JigaRex Universal Binding Mount Jig:

JigaRex™ Videos

Quick Overview

JigaRex™ Self-Centering Clamps Operation and Demonstration

Proper Usage of JigaRex Mounting Plates

Guardian Bindings with the JigaRex™

Dynafit Bindings with the JigaRex™

If you use the JigaRex™, as with any tool, it is your responsibility to ensure the quality and safety of work you do, as well as the safety of the bindings. It is highly recommended that a certified binding technician performs a binding check to verify proper release and function of ski bindings.

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Park Tools Adjustable Torque Wrench Info & Concepts

http://www.slidewright.com/park-tools-adjustable-torque-wrench-plus-3-pozi-bit.phpThe Park Tool torque driver is useful in any toolbox. Generally, 1/4″ hex drivers are very versatile and compact since they can hold and drive an unlimited array of hex bits and sockets for all kinds of uses, including ski, snowboards & bikes. We’ve been looking for a torque driver that is not sport specific, adjustable for variety of ski, snowboard, bike and other times when a torque wrench is useful and found one in this tool.
Relative to skiing, it’s a huge bummer, can get spendy and time consuming repairing a spinning binding screw or cracking a top sheet.  Same for over tightening your nice carbon and lightweight bike components that you spent a lot of money to own. Many manufacturers recommend 4.5Nm for alpine binding screws.

  • Adjusts to apply 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, or 6 Newton Meter (Nm) of torque when rotating clockwise
  • All metal internal construction for long life
  • Comfortable ergonomic composite molded grip
  • Includes 3mm, 4mm, 5mm and T25 bits (stored in handle)
  • ¼” drive, Magnetic socket retains bits

Note: a 6mm hex wrench is needed to adjust the torque. The tool is for driving only and NOT to be used for loosening screws.

For general information about torque wrenches, we’ve copied this information and video from the Park Tools site:

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS AND CONCEPTS

This article will discuss the basics of torque and torque wrench use. See also related article on Basic Thread Concepts. This article includes a table of various torque recommendations. The Bicycle Specific Torque Value Chart is also available as a PDF file.

INTRO TO TORQUE

Threaded fasteners (nuts and bolts) are used to hold many components to the bike. As a fastener is tightened, the fastener actually flexes and stretches, much like a rubber band. This stretching is not permanent, but it gives the joint force to hold together, called “preload”, or tension. Each fastener is designed for a certain range of tension. Too much tightening will deform the threads or the parts. Too little preload will mean the fastener will loosen with use. This can damage components, such as a crank ridden with a loose mounting bolt. Loose bolts and nuts are also generally the source of various creaking on the bike.

Tension in the fastener depends largely upon the amount of torque (tightening) and the size of the thread. Generally, engineers will specify a thread size large enough to handle the anticipated stresses. For example, the M5 bolt of a water bottle cage bolt would not be a good choice for holding a crank. Even if the bolt were as tight as possible, it would not provide enough force to hold the arm secure to the spindle. The crank-to-spindle interface receives quite a lot of stress, making larger threads (M8, M12, M14) a better choice. The amount of pressure applied by a thread can be substantial in order to hold the joint secure. For example, a fully tightened crank bolt can provide over 14,000 Newton force (3,000 pounds) as it holds the arm in place.

It is commonly believed that bolts and nuts often come loose for no apparent reason. However, the common cause for threaded fasteners loosening is simply lack of tension during initial assembly. Vibration, stress, use, or abuse cannot typically overcome the amount of clamping force in a properly sized and secured threaded fastener. As a simple rule of thumb, any fastener should be tightened as tight as possible without failure of the thread or the component parts. This means the weakest part of the joint determines the limits of tension, and hence, torque.

 2 TORQUE MEASUREMENTS

Torque for mechanics is simply a twisting or turning motion around the axis of the thread. This resistance can be correlated to, but is not a direct measurement of, fastener tension. Generally, the higher the rotational resistance, the greater tension in the threaded fastener. In other words, the more effort it takes to tighten a bolt, the tighter it is.

Torque is measured as a unit of force acting on a rotating lever of some set length. In the USA, the common unit used to measure torque is the inch-pound (abbreviated in-lb.). This is a force of one pound acting at the end of a lever (wrench) only one inch long. Another torque unit used in the USA is the foot-pound (abbreviated ft-lb.), which is the force in pounds along a one-foot long lever. It is possible to convert between the two units by multiplying or dividing by twelve. Because it can become confusing, it is best to stick to one designation. The units given on the torque table here will be the in-lb.

A more universally accepted torque measurement is the Newton-meter (abbreviated Nm). One Newton-meter is a force of one Newton on a meter long lever. Another option sometimes used is the Kilogram-centimeter (abbreviated kgf-cm), which is a kilogram of force acting on a lever one centimeter long. It is possible to convert between the various systems.

in-lb = ft-lb. × 12 EXAMPLE: 5.5 ft-lb × 12 = 66 in-lb
in-lb = Nm × 8.851 EXAMPLE: 9 Nm × 8.851 = 79.7 in-lb
in-lb = kgf-cm × 0.87 EXAMPLE: 300 kgf-cm × 0.87 = 261 in-lb

 TORQUE WRENCH TYPES

Torque wrenches are simply tools for measuring resistance to rotation. There is a correlation between the tension in the bolt and the effort it takes to turn it. Any tool, even a torque wrench, should be used with common sense. A cross-threaded bolt will not properly tighten even with a torque wrench. The mechanic must be aware of the purpose of torque, and what torque and fastener preload doing to the component joint. It is also important to consider thread preparation, which is discussed in detail at the end of this article.

Torque wrenches available to general industrial work, including bicycle work, are typically accurate to plus or minus four percent. In other words, a torque wrench set for 100 in-lbs might tighten to 96 in-lbs, or 104 in-lbs. There are basically three types of torque wrenches, the beam type, the click type and the dial type. The click type and dial type wrenches have more moving parts than the beam, and are susceptible to wear and will require re-calibration. The bicycle has relatively light torque specifications (20-inch pound) to relatively heavy torque specifications (600 inch-pound). There is no single torque wrench accurate for this wide range. Consequently, Park Tool offers two different wrenches.

BEAM TYPE

Park Tool TW-1 and TW-2 torque wrenches are beam-type. The beam design is relatively simple, and is accurate for both left-hand and right-hand threading. The socket head holds two steel beams, a primary beam and an indicator or pointer beam. The primary beam deflects as the handle is pulled. The separate pointer beam remains un-deflected, and the primary beam below flexes and moves with the handle. The reading is taken at the end of the pointer, at the reading plate on the primary beam. The handle is moved until the desired reading is attained. These wrenches rarely require re-calibration. If the pointer needle is not pointing to zero when the tool is at rest, it is simply bent back until it does align. Fatigue in the steel is not an issue.

Beam Type Torque Wrench Calibration

It is possible for any torque wrench to come out of calibration. The beam type wrenches use a simple principle of deflection that allows the user to re-calibrate the wrench. Inspect the pointer when the wrench is at rest. If it is pointing to zero on the scale, the wrench is calibrated. If the pointer is off to either side, the pointer beam can be bent back so it again points at zero. It is easiest to use a lever between the two beams and pry small amounts, checking the scale and the pointer often.

RE-CALIBRATION OF THE BEAM TYPE WRENCH

 4 BICYCLE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Below is a table of torque equivalents and formulas for conversions follow the torque table. The table is also available as a PDF file HERE.

All figures in the table below are inch-pound. Note that some companies do not specify torque for certain components or parts. Contact the manufacturer for the most up to date specifications.

WHEEL, HUB, REAR COG AREA

COMPONENT SHIMANO® IN-LB. OTHER IN-LB.
Spoke tension Torque is typically not used in wheels. Spoke tension is measured by deflection. Contact rim manufacturer for specific tension recommendations. See TM-1
Quick release-closed cam type Measured torque not typically used. Common industry practice is resistance at lever half way through swing from open to fully closed. For more see Tire and Tube Removal and Installation.
Axle nuts to frame
(non-quick release type wheels)
260-390 Control Tech® 65 (steel)
Control Tech® 85 (titanium)
SRAM® 266-350
Cassette sprocket lockring 260-434 Campagnolo® 442
SRAM® 310-350
Hub cone locking nut 87-217 Bontrager® 150
Chris King® 100
Freehub body 305-434 Bontrager® 400

HEADSET, HANDLEBAR, SEAT AND SEAT POST AREA

Component Shimano® in-lb. Other in-lb.
Threaded headset
locknut
Chris King® Gripnut type 130-150
Tange-Seiki® 217
Stem binder bolt- quill type for threaded headsets 174-260 Control Tech® 144-168
Stem steering column binder bolts
Threadless headset types
Control Tech® 120-144
Deda 71
FSA® carbon 78
Syncros® cotter bolt type 90
Thomson® 48
Time® Monolink 45
Stem handlebar binder
1 or 2 binder bolts
174-260 Control Tech® 120-144
Stem handlebar binder
4 binder bolts
Control Tech® 120-144
Deda magnesium 71
Thomson® 48
FSA® OS-115 carbon 78
Time® Monolink 53
MTB handle bar end extensions Cane Creek® 70
Control Tech® 144
Seat rail binder 174-347 Control Tech®, 2 bolt type 144
Control Tech®, single bolt 300
Syncros® each 45
Time® Monolink-44
Travativ® (M8 bolt) 195-212 / 53-63 ( M6 bolt)
Seat post binder
Note: Seat posts require only minimal tightening to not slip downward. Avoid over tightening.
Campagnolo® 36-60

CRANKSET, BOTTOM BRACKET AND PEDAL AREA

Component Shimano® in-lb. Other in-lb.
Pedal into crank 307 minimum Campagnolo® 354
Ritchey® 307
Truvativ® 276-300
Shimano® Octalink XTR crankarm bolts (M15 thread) (not Hollowtech II) 357-435
Shimano® Hollowtech II bottom bracket bearing cup (2004 XTR, XT, Dura-Ace) 305-435
Shimano® Hollowtech II crank bolt screws (2004 XTR, Dura-Ace, XT) 88-132
Shimano® Hollowtech II
Left-hand fixing cap
4-6
Crank bolt (including spline-type cranks and square-spindle cranks) 305-391 Bontrager® 310-380
Campagnolo®312-324
FRA® (M8 bolt) 304-347
FRA® (M14 steel) 434-521
Race Face® 480
Syncros®240
Truvativ® 384-420 ISIS Drive
Truvativ® 336-372 square type White Ind® 240-300
Crank bolt one-key release cap 44-60 Truvativ® 107-124
Chainring cassette to crankarm (lockring) 443-620
Chainring bolt – steel 70-95 Campagnolo® 84-120
Race Face® 100
Truvativ® 107-124
Chainring bolt – aluminum 44-88 Truvativ® 72-80
Bottom bracket
adjustable type
609-695
Bottom bracket cartridge type 435-608 White Ind.® 240
Real 432-612
Campagnolo® 612
FSA® 347-434
Race Face® 420
Truvativ® 300-360

DERAILLEUR AND SHIFT LEVER AREA

Component Shimano® in-lb. Other in-lb.
STI type shift lever binder 53-69
Shift lever – MTB “thumb type” 22-26
Shift lever – “twist grip” type “Revo” shifter 53-70 SRAM® 17
Front Derailleur clamp mount 44-60 Campagnolo® 61
Mavic® 26-35
SRAM® 44-60
Front derailleur cable pinch 44-60 Campagnolo® 44
Mavic® 44-62
SRAM® 40
Rear derailleur mounting bolt 70-86 SRAM® 70-85
Campagnolo® 133
Rear derailleur cable inch bolt 35 Campagnolo® 53
SRAM® 35-45
Rear derailleur pulley wheel bolt 27-34 Sachs® 44-53

BRAKE CALIPER AND LEVER AREA

Component Shimano® in-lb. Other in-lb.
Brake caliper mount to frame, side/dual/center pull 70-85 Campagnolo® 90
Cane Creek® 68-72
Brake caliper mount to braze-on
linear pull/cantilever
44-60 Avid® 43-61
Control Tech® 100-120
SRAM® 45-60
Brake pad – threaded stud, dual pivot/cantilever/sidepull 44-60 Avid® 52-69
Cane Creek® 56-60
Campagnolo® 72
Mavic® 62-80
SRAM® 50-70
Brake pad – smooth stud, cantilever 70-78
Brake cable pinch bolt – linear pull/cantilever 53-69 Control Tech® 40-60
SRAM® 50-70
Brake cable pinch bolt –
sidepull/dual pivot/centerpull
53-69 Campagnolo® 45
Cane Creek® 68-72
Mavic® 62-80
Brake caliper arm pivot- dual pivot 70-86 Cane Creek® 72-84
Sidepull/dual pivot brake pad bolt 44-60 Cane Creek® 56-60
Cantilever straddle wire pinch 5 x 0.8 thread 35-43 Control Tech® 40-60
Brake caliper wire pinch
linear pull/cantilever
M6 x 1 thread
50-75 Avid® 52-69
Brake lever – MTB type 53-69 Avid® 40-60 (clamping built into body)
Avid® strap type 28-36
Cane Creek® 53-80
SRAM® 30
Brake lever-drop bar type
(including STI and Ero types)
53-69 Campagnolo® 88
Mavic® 62-80

DISC BRAKE SYSTEMS

Component Shimano® in-lb. Other in-lb.
Disc rotor to hub 18-35 (M5 bolts)
350 (M965 rotor locking)
Hayes® 50
Avid®-55
Magura®-34
Caliper mount 53-69 Avid® 80-90
Magura® 51
Hydraulic hose fittings 44-60 Hayes® 55

Formulas for converting other torque designations into Netwon meter (Nm) and inch pounds (in-lb.):

  • Nm = in-lb x 0.113
  • Nm= ft-lb x 1.356
  • Nm= kg-cm x 0.0981
  • in-lb = ft-lb × 12
  • in-lb = Nm × 8.851
  • in-lb = kgf-cm x 0.87

TORQUE EQUIVALENCIES

Inch pound
(in-lb.)
Approximate Foot pound
(ft-lbs)
Approximate Newton Meter
(Nm)
10 0.8 1.1
20 1.7 2.3
30 2.5 3.4
40 3.3 4.5
50 4.2 5.6
60 5.0 6.8
70 5.8 7.9
80 6.7 9.0
90 7.5 10.2
100 8.3 11.3
110 9.2 12.4
120 10.0 13.6
130 10.8 14.7
140 11.7 15.8
150 12.5 16.9
160 13.3 18.1
170 14.2 19.2
180 15.0 20.3
190 15.8 21.5
200 16.7 22.6
210 17.5 23.7
220 18.3 24.9
230 19.2 26.0
240 20.0 27.1
250 20.8 28.2
260 21.7 29.4
270 22.5 30.5
280 23.3 31.6
290 24.2 32.8
300 25.0 33.9
310 25.8 35.0
320 26.7 36.2
330 27.5 37.3
340 28.3 38.4
350 29.2 39.5
360 30.0 40.7
370 30.8 41.8
380 31.7 42.9
390 32.5 44.1
400 33.3 45.2
410 34.2 46.3
420 35.0 47.5
430 35.8 48.6
440 36.7 49.7
450 37.5 50.8
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Efficient Hot Waxing, Scraping and Brushing

Following, are two videos, a few minutes long, showing various hot waxing techniques, along with minimal scraping and roto-brushing to bang out waxing tasks in little time and with little mess. Not including cooling and hardening time (20 minutes, minimum) the total time involved could be easily under 15 minutes and possibly 10 per pair or snowboard. Using liquid wax, the time could be 5 minutes:
(Note select the ‘HQ’ icon for Higher Quality video.)

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Cool! New boards! Now what????

You just got some new skis or a snowboard. Now what?

Unwrap & drool, then inspect them to ‘get to know’ them

  • Check bases for flatness with a true bar and backlighting
  • Look for consistent base structure and for any gouges
  • Eyeball torsional squareness and general structure evenness
  • Measure the side and base bevels and record info
  • Check general consistent sharpness of the edges and for burrs or nicks. Also, check for rust
  • Detune the tips and tails around the shovel until they are no longer sharp and catch objects
  • Make any necessary (hopefully none or minor) fixes and tweaks
  • Clean, wax, scrape and brush a few cycle
  • Ski or ride ’em, repeat above and make any edge bevel tweaks deemed appropriate and test again

Periodically repeat above

willi

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Soldering Iron Base Repair

While skiing or riding challenging terrain or sparse snow coverage, it’s inevitable that your bases will get dinged. Core shots need to be sealed and protected, Gouges need to be filled to keep your bases running smooth.

The days of burning ptex candles are over. A weld is a far superior repair option. The use of a soldering iron and base welding materials is a quick and effective option for the DIYer.

Base repair tools and supplies can be found here.

(Note select the ‘HQ’ icon for Higher Quality video.)

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Binding Freedom Pozi Screw Lengths

BFsmall_headFollowing is a ‘guide’ for determining required M5 pozi machine
screws for Binding Freedom
(or Quiver Killer stainless steel
inserts). Measure and self-verify screw lengths needed. If in doubt purchase addition lengths and back ups. Longer screws can be ground to shorter lengths if needed.

Here is a ‘cheat sheet’ showing Binding Freedom Pozi-Drive Screws and how to measure them correctly.

(from Binding Freedom, U.N.O., as of 10/20/15.)

Tips on Measuring your bindings for screw lengths

-Smallhead screws are measured as the total length of the screw less 2mm, while lowhead screws are measured as the length of just the threads

-Fasteners should protrude 4mm MIN and 6mm MAX into a threaded insert.

-To determine the idea fastener length, press an existing screw into the binding hole. Make sure it has bottomed out in its hole. Measure how far it protrudes below the base of the binding.

-Measure the screw itself as well. Subtract the protrusion length from the length of the screw. Add 5mm to that length. Find the closest size fastener that is within 1mm of that number. In this example, 13mm – 9mm + 5mm = 9mm. Either an 8mm or 10mm flathead would be appropriate for this binding.

22 Designs:
❅-Axl/Vice/Hammerhead
•16 – 10mm low heads

7TM:
❅-Garmont tour
•8 – 18mm small heads
❅-Power tour
•4 – 20mm small heads (new small heads length will be released this winter to address the lack of this size – you can source your own M5 screw for now)
•4 – 18mm small heads
•4 – 14mm small heads

ADRENALINE AND LIKE BINDINGS:
❅No fit – the binding uses a stepped screw that we currently can not match.

BLACK DIAMOND:
❅ O1
•14 – 14mm small heads

CAST TOURING SYSTEM:
❅-Toe Plates
•8 – 12mm small heads
❅-Heel lengths will vary per binding.  Add 6mm length to the M5 screw needed for your bindings heel screws.

DYNAFIT:
❅-Comfort
•10 – 16mm small heads
•8 – 10mm lowheads
❅-Vertical ST
•10 – 16mm small heads
•8 – 10mm low heads
❅-Vertical FT
•8 – 12mm small heads
•10 – 16mm small heads
❅-Radical ST/FT
•8 – 16mm small heads
•8 – 10mm low heads
❅-Speed Turn/Speed Radical
•10 – 12mm small heads
•8 – 10mm low heads
❅-TLT Speed
•10 – 10mm small heads
•8 – 10mm low heads
❅-Beast 14
•8 – 12mm small heads
•8 – 14mm small heads
❅-Beast 14 (Binding Freedom screws are not compatible with this binding.  We are currently trying to produce a new screw with pozi head that will function with this binding.  This screw is still in the production phase and for now you will have to source your own M5 thread screws from a hardware store)
❅-8 – 12mm small heads
❅-8 – 14mm small heads
❅-Dynafit Beast 16 (Binding Freedom screws are not compatible with this binding.  We are currently trying to produce a new screw with pozi head that will function with this binding.  This screw is still in the production phase and for now you will have to source your own M5 thread screws from a hardware store)
•4 – 10mm countersunk flat heads with head diameter reduced to 8mm
•8 – 16mm countersunk flat heads with head diameter reduced to 8mm
•8 – 12mm countersunk flat heads with head diameter reduced to 8mm
❅-Dynafit Radical 2 ST & FT
•16 – 14mm small heads with head diameter reduced to 8mm

FRITSCHI:
❅-Titanal
•14 – 8mm small heads
❅-Freeride +
•10 – 10mm small heads
•6 – 16mm small heads
❅-Explorer
•14 – 12mm small heads
❅-Pro
•8 – 12mm small heads
•6 – 16mm small heads
❅-Eagle
•8 – 12mm small heads
•6 – 16mm small heads
❅-Experience
•8 – 8mm small heads
•6 – 12mm small heads
❅-Vipec 12
•8 – 10mm small heads
•8 – 12mm low heads (coming soon)

G3:
❅-Enzo
•12 – 14mm small heads
❅-Targa
•12 – 12mm small heads
❅-Accent
•8 – 10mm small heads
•4 – 12mm small heads
•4 – 18mm small heads
❅-Onyx
•10 – 8mm small heads
•8 – 10mm low heads
❅-ION
•8 – 12mm (or 14mm) small heads
•8 – 10mm (or 12mm, cut from 16mm) low heads

GARMONT:
❅-7tm Power Tour
•4 – 14mm small heads
•8 – 18mm small heads

LOOK:
❅-XM
•20 – 10mm flat heads (screw coming soon – if ordering for this binding its best to source your own 10mm counter sunk screws.  Our Small head screw gets in the way of the heel release function.  Our new flat head screw being introduced for next season will eliminate this problem)
❅-Pivot 18
•12 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 20mm low heads
❅-Pivot 14 (13/14 and newer)
•8 – 18mm small heads
•4 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-Pivot 14 (12/13 and older
•4 – 14mm small heads
•4 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-PX14
•4 – 14mm small heads
•4 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 8mm low heads
•4 – 22mm low heads
❅-PX12 Demo
•8 – 8mm small heads
•12 – 14mm small heads

M EQUIPMENT:
❅-Medijo
•14 – 12mm small heads
•4 – 16mm small heads
•8 – 18mm small heads

MFD:
❅-All Time
•8 – 8mm small heads
•8 – 10mm small heads

MARKER:
❅-Kingpin (Binding Freedom screws are not compatible with this binding.  We are currently trying to produce a new screw with pozi head that will function with this binding.  This screw is still in the production phase and for now you will have to source your own M5 thread screws from a hardware store)
•8 – 10mm countersunk flat heads with heads reduced to 8mm diameter
•6 – 12mm countersunk flat heads
•4 – 18mm countersunk flat heads
❅-Duke/Baron/F10/F12 (2011 & Newer)
-18 – 10mm small heads
❅-Duke/Baron/F10/F12 (2010 & Older)
•16 – 10mm small heads
•2 – 8mm low heads
❅-Lord SP14
•8 – 8mm small heads
•4 – 8mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-Schizo/Demo
•10 – 10mm small heads
•8 – 8mm low heads
❅-Jester, Griffon or Squire (H18mm AFD’s & H10 x L200mm heel base plate):
•8 – 8mm small heads
•4 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 8mm low heads
❅-Jester Pro 18, Jester, Griffon or Squire (H21mm AFD’s & H13 x L240mm heel base plate):
-4 – 16mm small heads
-12 – 8mm low heads

PLUM:
❅-Yak
•16 – 10mm small heads
❅-Guide
•8 – 10mm small heads
•8 – 12mm small heads

ROSSIGNOL:
❅-FKS (With geze 4 hole toe)
•4 – 10mm small heads
•4 12mm small heads
•4 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-FKS/FKX
•4 – 14mm small heads
•4 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-FKS 14/140
•8 – 18mm small heads
•4 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-FKS 18/180
•12 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 16mm low heads

ROTTEFELLA:
❅-NTN Freeride (12/13 & Newer)
•12 – 10mm small heads
•4 – 8mm low heads
❅-NTN Freeride (11/12 & older
•12 – 8mm small heads
•4 – 8mm low heads
❅-NTN Freedom
•4 – 8mm small heads
•2 – 12 mm small heads
•4 – 8mm low heads
•12 – 10mm low heads

SALOMON:
❅-STH 2 WTR
•8 – 20mm small heads (20mm screw is not yet available but will be introduced for the 15/16 season, you can source your own screws for now)
•8 – 12mm small heads
❅-Warden
•8 – 12mm small heads
•8 – 16mm small heads
❅-Guardian
•8 – 10mm flat heads
•12 – 12mm flat heads (screw coming soon – if ordering for this binding its best to source your own 10mm counter sunk screws.  Our Small head screw gets in the way of the heel release function.  Our new flat head screw being introduced for next season will eliminate this problem)
❅-914/916/STH916
•2 – 12mm small heads
•4 – 14mm small heads
•6 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 26mm low heads
❅-STH12/STH14/Z
•4 – 12mm small heads
•2 – 14mm small heads
•6 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 20mm low heads
❅-STH14 Driver (2011 & newer) NOT STH2
•4 – 12mm small heads
•10 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 26mm small heads
❅-912 Ti
•12 – 18mm small heads
•4 – 26mm low heads

SILVRETTA:
❅-500 Easy
•14 – 10mm small heads
❅-400
•16 – 8mm small heads – the diameter of the screw will will need to be ground down to 8mm to fit

TYROLIA:
❅-Attack
•4 – 8mm low heads
•8 – 10mm lowheads
•4 – 18mm low heads (coming soon – sub in a 20mm and grind down for now)
❅-Peak 15
•4 – 8mm low heads
•4 – 10mm low heads
•4 – 12mm low heads (coming soon)
•4 – 16mm low heads
❅-Peak 12/Mojo 12
•4 – 14mm small heads
•4 – 10mm small heads
•4 – 16mm small heads
•4 – 18mm small heads

VOILE:
❅-Switchback
•12 – 14mm small heads

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Drilling Skis to Mount Ski Bindings

Drilling ski with stepped alpine drill bit

Drilling skis to mount ski bindings is very straight forward and similar to drilling a multitude of materials like woods, plastics and composites. Practice on wood scraps helps to relieve stress before drilling your precious skis for the firs time.

Take your time, measure thrice and drill once. You’ll soon learn how easy and undaunted you will become.

 

If you haven’t done so, please also check out the following topics before proceeding:

-Finding Your Ski’s Centerline
-Paper Ski Binding Templates
-Drill and Tap Guides for Hand Drilling

 After locating your binding template relative to the ski center line and boot sole center mark on the skis:
  1. Secure template with masking tape
  2. Mark small holes with a very sharp awl by hand at the hole locations
  3. Double check that hole marks are equidistant from centerline
  4. Measure with ruler, tape or calipers to assure they match the template
  5. Place the binding piece and visually make sure the marks align properly

 

 

 

 

If you find minor errors in your marks, you can use the awl tip to slightly ‘move’ the mark.

 

Once you are certain your hole layout is accurate, use a punch and hammer to enlarge the mark to provide a better guide for the drill bit tip.

Relative to your experience level, confidence, required tolerances, drill and drill bit type, and other factors, the following hand drilling steps may be variable. Stainless steel inserts require a higher level of accuracy for location and vertical drilling than an alpine screw.  If you have a drill press with a stop, you certainly don’t need a drill guide, but may consider using a drill bit stop collar on the bit. A stepped alpine drill bit ‘s shoulder may suffice for some as a reasonable ‘stop’ for drilling, but not others. A straight jobber, brad tipped or even stepped 1/4″ bits absolutely need a drill bit stop collar or certainty with a drill press stop.

The moment of truth, drilling the skis with a hand drill with various methods:

Drill Guide & Drill Bit Stop Collar:

  1. Set the depth of the drill bit stop collar to proper depth
  2. Locate the guide in the punched drill hole mark with the drill bit tip
  3. Clamp if desired or secure with a firm hand
  4. Turn on hand drill and to drill to the stop
  5. Turn off and pull out bit
  6. Repeat on the remaining holes

Drill Bit Stop Collar:

  1. Set the depth of the drill bit stop collar to proper depth
  2. Locate the drill bit in the punched drill hole mark
  3. Turn on hand drill and to drill to the stop
  4. Turn off and pull out bit
  5. Repeat on the remaining holes

Freehand Drilling with Stepped Drill Bit:

  1. Locate the drill bit in the punched drill hole mark
  2. Turn on hand drill and to drill to the shoulder (BE CAREFUL)
  3. Turn off and pull out bit
  4. Repeat on the remaining holes

Final Steps:

Tap holes as necessary for top sheet type or stainless steel inserts:

Check drilled holes and vacuum drill dust:

Add binding sealant/glue or epoxy as desired or recommended. Remove bubbles with toothpick and make sure perimeter and base of holes are coated:

 

 

Mount binding parts with proper screws and driver:

 

Make sure bindings are mounted flat to the ski surface with no gaps:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Visually inspect mounting of all binding parts and alignment:

 

Have boot fit, correct forward pressure and proper DIN set by authorized ski technician:

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SkiMan SideWall Sharp Planer Information

SkiMan SideWall Sharp Planer InstructionsPurchase Ski & Snowboard Sidewall Planers here.

  • Ergonomic sidewall planer
  • Easy handling, steady grip, maximum  accuracy
  • Best results, minimum  effort
  • Adjustable  blade position and cutting  depth
  • Right and left hand  use
  • For ski and snowboard
  • SkiMan SideWall Sharp Planer Instructions

For Recreational, Snowsports Pros and Racers

The   use    of   the    sidewall    planer is   essential  to   remove   excess   of material  which may compromise  the file cutting  and  make  it  difficult  to obtain  the right angle.

It is necessary to use this tool before filing,  so  that  the  file  can  make  a precise  work on the edges.

Ski or Snowboard sidewall:

  • remove before filing
  • titanium blade steel
  • edge base
  • ski or snowboard  body
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Stainless Steel Screws for Threaded Inserts

BFsmall_headThe common question regarding the screws needed for stainless steel inserts (Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers have the same threads) and particular bindings
hopefully can be answered here. It is impossible for us to remain on top of every screw for every binding and there are variables that can be at play depending on your particular set of circumstances (ie, insert installation depth, shims, binding thickness, etc).

Measuring your binding thickness and adding that to your insert depth is your best guide.

Ordering more screws than you think you’ll need is always a good idea. BFlow_headAlso, you can always reduce the length of screws that are a little long. If in doubt, erring towards longer screws with the possibility of minor modifications by grinding or filing allows some flexibility.

Using a threadlocker like Vibra-Tite or Loctite is highly recommended.

Binding Freedom has a Screw Length Chart that will be updated from time to time, along with the following screw measuring tips and images.

Tips on Measuring your bindings for screw lengths
Flathead and Smallhead screws are measured as the total length of the screw, while Buttonhead screws are measured as the length of just the threads
Fasteners should protrude 4mm MIN and 6mm MAX into a threaded insert.  To determine the idea fastener length, press an existing screw into the binding hole. Make sure it has bottomed out in its hole. Measure how far it protrudes below the base of the binding.
Measure the screw itself as well. Subtract the protrusion length from the length of the screw. Add 5mm to that length. Find the closest size fastener that is within 1mm of that number. In this example, 13mm – 9mm + 5mm = 9mm. Either an 8mm or 10mm flathead would be appropriate for this binding.

 

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New 2014 World Speed Ski Record Set on Briko-Maplus Wax

Tamtam Photo - Simone Origone recordman de la piste_1000_72dpiOn March 31st 2014, Simone Origone broke his 2006 World Speed Ski Record by skiing almost 100mph faster than a car traveling down the highway at 60mph! He reached 252.45kmh/157.87mph in the Italian Alps on Briko-Maplus race wax and super aerodynamic gear. Congratulations to Simone and Briko-Maplus waxes and technicians.

The waxes on his skis:

Briko-Maplus Racing Base: SM 40.60 World Cup Reserved
Briko-Maplus Fluoro Paraffin: HP3 Yellow2 (Race Choice) 80% + LP2 Green (Hardener) 20%
Briko-Maplus Perfluorinated Overlay: FP4 Hot-S Spray (Accelerator)

For a video of the World Speed Record:

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Ski-Mender RP105 Base Repair Gun

Update: To avoid a ‘cold weld’ that has the potential to tear out while finishing the repair or while sliding on snow, it is very important to make sure the Ski (and Snowboard) Mender RP105 has enough time to achieve proper temperature and to carefully heat the area around a repair before injecting the welding material. LDPE has a very low adhesive property, so we need the heating of both base and repair materials to form a proper weld.

You need about 430 degrees F/220 degrees C to get a proper weld, so it is important to let the smaller Ski and Snowboard Mender RP105 heat up for 20-25 minutes and then use the front or waxing iron on teflon sheet to preheat the base before injecting the material. DO NOT FORCE the trigger and the material. Wait until it is molten and easier to extrude.

The larger, professional grade ski and snowboard base repair gun (Base Mender RP 360) does run at a higher temp and heats the base of the ski or snowboard much faster.

Originally posted 1/30/08 (edited): We just received a few guns and performed some low tech initial testing of this new consumer level ski & snowboard base repair gun by Power Adhesives from the UK.

Talk about a nice size, lightweight, brainless and low tech. After less than ten minutes of heating up the 11mm/7/16″ welding rod/stick, it was smearing the material with it’s 440°F temperature. The directions say 10-15 minutes (which probably is wise to wait) and implied there was a switch, which there is not. I just tested it on the packaging plastic for better contrast for pictures. Without a damaged ski at the moment, I’ll try that out when the time comes and give the bases some mileage to see how long the repair lasts. It certainly isn’t a bomber/industrial grade tool, but like a decent glue gun that if taken care (ie, don’t drop on trigger) of seems adequately built for the home tuner and ought to last a while. No telling about the heating element though.

After initial extrusion and smearing of the provided proprietary welding material, I tried using the tip as a soldering/welding iron on metal grip, welding wire, ribbon & typical rod/stick (did not think to try it on ptex candle material). The tip is not as hot as soldering irons I’ve used and definitely did not smoke as much…very little in fact which was nice.

Regardless, it did seem to melt the material fine but not quite as fluid as the hotter irons have, though looks promising, especially for applying metal grip into the bottom gouges. I’m pretty sure the metal grip has a lower melting point than the other materials anyway.

Welding gun with metal stand. Fifteen minutes to heat up and melt 11 mm welding rod/sticks. Clean tip showing recessed fan shaped flow area. Linear smear of melted welding rod from gun & droplet/pool in background. Using heated tip as soldering/welding iron. Left to right: metal grip, welding wire, ribbon & rod/stick and smear through heated tip.

Below is a video on using the New RP360 and RP100 (now RP105):

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Ski & Snowboard Side Edge Filling Using Various Tools4Boards File Technologies

Screen Shot 2013-11-29 at 10.49.08 AMRick Weissenborn of Tools4Boards demonstrates edge filing with various Tools4Boards Metal file technologies along with some good tips on basic edge tuning.

Note that metal files remove more material than stones or diamonds and are used to set initial edge geometry or re-establishing very dull or roughed edges. Follow with a progression of stones or diamond files and remove the hanging burr on the base edge formed after filing the side edges. Don’t forget to plane or cut side walls that may interfere with the stone or file’s ability to cut the side edge. Also note that work hardened edge sections formed when hitting rocks or other hard objects, require using a stone before the files. Otherwise, your files will be dulled by these hardened edge sections.

 

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Tips & Info Sections: