FAQs and General Info

(FAQ)

After performing side edge sharpening and polishing, a hanging burr can be formed which may feel like a razor sharp corner. This can create hooking of the edge and unexpected edge action. Removing the burr is necessary and and easy final edge tuning step.

By placing a hard stone on the base edge, and run along it, the burr can be knocked off and the edge corner polished smooth. A rubber abrasive (dressing, grinding rubber or gummi stone can follow to smooth the sharp corner further.

For all intents and purposes, regarding purpose, materials, tools, screws and installation procedures, Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers are virtually interchangeable.

The main difference between the two is that the Binding Freedom inserts have a notch across the top. This allows for the use of a slotted driver or Binding Freedom’s 3 in 1 Installation Tool. This slot also allows for the removal of the insert without ruining the interior threads while using an extraction tool with reverse threads. Stuff happens and occasionally you may need to remove an errant insert so always order more than you think you need…just in case. It is also possible that the slot in the BF insert can also get stripped or compromised and an extractor may become necessary.

Dimensions: 9mm x

Layout & Binding Templates:

Drilling Holes: 1/4″ or F?

Epoxy:

Installing Inserts: 

Screws: Flat, Button & Panhead

Threadlockers: Loctite vs Vibra-Tite

The common question regarding the screws needed for stainless steel inserts (Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers have the same threads) and particular bindings hopefully can be answered here. It is impossible for us to remain on top of every screw for every binding and there are variables that can be at play depending on your particular set of circumstances (ie, insert installation depth, shims, binding thickness, etc).

Measuring your binding thickness and adding that to your insert depth is your best guide.

Ordering more screws than you think you’ll need is always a good idea. Also, you can always reduce the length of screws that are a little long. If in doubt, erring towards longer screws with the possibility of minor modifications by grinding or filing allows some flexibility.

Using a threadlocker like Vibra-Tite or Loctite is highly recommended.

The downloads section at Quiver Killer, offers the following insights:

This is your fastener guide.

You will find 5 fasteners enclosed to help you determine the proper M5 fasteners to secure your bindings to your installed Quiver Killer binding inserts:
• 10 mm pan head
• 8 mm flat head
• 10 mm flat head
• 12 mm flat head
• 16 mm flat head
1. Determine the correct head type. This is the easy part. It should be obvious what fits into your bindings best,
the flat or pan head. Note that your bindings may require more than one head type, so try all the holes.
2. Determine the correct length. We like to use what I call the revolution method:
a) Install your Quiver Killers into your skis*.
*you can also install an insert into a scrap piece of wood if you’d like to determine your correct fasteners before mounting your skis.
b) Without your bindings, take the appropriate headed fastener and screw it all the way to the bottom of the insert, counting how many revolutions it takes to hit the bottom. Remove the fastener and now use it to secure your binding to the Quiver Killer. Again count how many revolutions you get:
• If it stops before 3 revolutions, you need a longer fastener.
• If it stops at the same number as your ‘without binding’ test, it’s too long! This is the
worst. A fastener that is too long will tighten to the bottom of the insert and not secure your binding to the ski. You need a shorter fastener.
• If it stops between these two lengths , this is probably the correct fastener. We strive for between 3-5 revolutions.

c) Math: The M5 thread has a 0.8mm pitch. That means for every revolution the fastener moves 0.8mm. How to use this information:
• your fastener is too short: add 0.8mm for every extra revolution you would like to add. For instance, if you only got 2 revolutions with your 8mm flat head fastener, you’d like to add about 2.5 more revolutions (2.5×0.8mm =2mm) so add 2mm to the length of the fastener: a 10mm flat head is the correct fastener.

d) Repeat. It is likely that you will need more than one fastener length for your bindings even if the head type is the same, so again check every hole.

Note: please realize that when ordering your fasteners, the length of socket and pan head fasteners refer to only the thread, while the length of flat head fasteners refer to the entire fastener.
Check the download section of our website for the ever expanding chart of which fasteners (shown below) to try with your bindings.

Puder Luder, LLC • Denver Colorado • 720 291 9563 www.quiverkiller.com

Here is the current (11/25/11) Fastener Reference Chart from Quiver Killer:

The more things change, the more things remain the same…..but get more complicated and expensive.

For training USA mountain troops in 1941. In this segment, we learn how to choose the proper ski length, how to choose and take care of boots, how to adjust bindings, how to care for ski edges and ski bottoms. Alan Ladd is one of the recruits.

This clip from the Classic Film: The Basic Principles of Skiing

(FAQ)
There is a school of thought that base cleaners/wax removers should never be used on the ski bases and hot scraping is the only method to employ for cleaning ski and snowboard bases. The thinking is cleaners will dry out the bases and destroy the wax saturation level and optimal glide achieved through repetitive wax cycles.

There seems to be some old wives tales at work when it comes to the debate over using cleaners vs. hot scraping with a soft wax. From a technical standpoint sintered bases are basically inert and do not bond well with anything. The surface of the base in contact with the snow is amorphous and random in nature. Structuring the base creates lines in the base material and establishes a pattern, but the underlying material is still amorphous and random.

Wax (or base cleaner for that matter) only penetrates a very small amount into the base, about 15 microns and only where random voids exist. 15 microns is a very small measurement (1% or so of base thickness~15 to 20 microns is about 0.0006 to 0.0008 inch). How can base cleaner possibly “dry out” the base if it only penetrates 15 microns? The answer quite simply is it doesn’t. Base cleaner, or at least Maplus base cleaner is basically detergent dissolved in a solvent. The solvent almost entirely evaporates and the detergent works to properly clean the base. When you take your dirty car to a car wash do you wax it first or clean it with detergent and then wax it? I’ve tried both and the later definitely seems to work better.

A distinction should be made between paraffin and perfluorinated waxes. A specific base cleaner called Fluorclean should be used to remove perfluorinated waxes as it is designed to remove all traces of fluorine from the base. Hot scraping at best blends new wax with a combination of old wax and contaminants in the old wax. I admit you will notice some contaminants being drawn out of the base when hot scraping if the base is dirty, but the iron is not a magnet and does not magically remove all contaminants using wax as a conduit. Residual wax left on the base after hot scraping will still have undesirable stuff in it.

Additionally, duration and type of cleaners can be employed judiciously to expedite and provide clean bases, ready for the next coat of wax. The longer a wax remover or solvent sits on the base, the more it can cut into the wax and any contaminates. Also, a more aggressive cleaner can also be used to remove the surface contaminants in little time and use of materials while eliminating the hot scraping steps and mess. Diluted (1:5) household cleaners like Simple Green can provide adequate cleaning. Biodegradable citrus based cleaners can be great options for cleaning the base and removing wax when harsher solvent based cleaners are not needed or desired. For base repairs, base cleaners are necessary, coupled with some sanding and cutting of the base material.

So, back to the original question. The best way to clean the bases is the method that is best for you, your preferences, time available, costs or beliefs: either hot scraping, base cleaner or a combination. If you are concerned about base cleaner remnants on the base, you can also hot scrape afterwards or simply wipe off with water.

A caveat to keep in mind is that skis and snowboards tend to run better and faster after more wax cycles and time on the snow. So, more aggressive cleaning would require more wax cycles to optimize the glide than a less aggressive, more topical cleaning.

(FAQ)

Like any cutting tool, you need to keep sharp for quicker, easier & better results. Why waste the material and just toss them when they can be used for years. Having a few sharpened scrapers around is also nice when you have a lot of scraping.

A plexi-scraper works best when it’s edge is straight and smooth and the corners are sharp without burrs or jagged areas. Very much like wood, plastic can be cut and formed with a variety of methods and tools to achieve desired results:

1) A dedicated scraper sharpening guide with a file, ceramic cutters or a carbide blade.
2) Setting up a 90° dedicated or multi-angled side edge guide with a panzer or very coarse file.
3) A large, flat or panzer file secured to a bench or in a bench vise
4) Power tools: belt sander, jointer, router table, etc
5) Coarse sandpaper or drywall screen on flat surface
6) Securing a plexi-scraper in a bench vise and quickly scraping edge with sharp metal scraper

7) Or JUST ARRIVED: Ski (also Snowboard) Scraper Sharpener with carbide bit for long life and fast reliable edges for production scraping and convenience.

Edited: 9/1/11