Bindings

For all intents and purposes, regarding materials, tools, screws and installation procedures, Binding Freedom & Quiver Killer stainless steel threaded inserts are virtually interchangeable.

(Click on the adjacent images to enlarge.)

The main difference between the two is that the Binding Freedom inserts have a notch across the top. This allows for the use of a slotted driver or Binding Freedom’s 3 in 1 Installation Tool. This slot also allows for the removal of the insert without ruining the interior threads while using an extraction tool with reverse threads.

Stuff happens and occasionally you may need to remove an errant insert so always order more than you think you need…just in case. It is also possible that the slot in the BF insert can also get stripped or compromised and an extractor may become necessary. A jam nut in conjunction with a threaded installation tool or shoulder screw can also be used for installation and extraction for both inserts.

Dimensions: Both Quiver Killer and Binding Freedom inserts are nominally 9mm length x 8mm (5/16″) diameter. The actual diameters for both average 7.85 mm. The lengths QK inserts average 8.55 mm & the BF inserts average 9.15. This is a minor 0.6 mm average difference which may be important for some but inconsequential for most. A little deeper hole will fill with epoxy to nullify any voids.

Both have the same outer (same tap & handle) and inner threads. The inner threads accept M5 x 0.8mm pitch machine screws. The pitch indicates the travel distance of the screw for each revolution. Both inserts are within 0.2mm of the same effective average screw depth of over 6 revolutions (QK=6.5 and BF=6.25) which is around 5mm screw length engagement inside the inserts.

General Binding Insert Installation Tips:

• Practice on old skis or scrap wood before attempting on your current skis.
• It is highly recommended that you redrill existing holes for binding inserts after testing the binding location and skis with a conventional alpine binding mount.
• Even though existing holes may have been fine for alpine or telemark mounts, does not necessarily mean they are free from accuracy errors. Alpine screws can be off a little bit and work fine. The tolerances for threaded inserts are less and be sure to double check existing holes before blindly drilling away. You can use a paper binding template with the holes punched out as a quick gauge.
• Only attempt installations when you have time, focus and mojo. If you are pressed for time, tired, distracted, inebriated, among other factors, errors are more likely to occur.
• Despite all of the care in the world, you can still be off just enough to create a problem once the epoxy sets. We recommend that you ‘lightly’ install your bindings with appropriate screws to align the binding holes with the inserts while the epoxy cures. It is possible to ‘tweak’ the installed insert location just enough if there are slight errors. Double check the overall alignment.

Also see:

• Finding Your Ski’s Centerline
• Paper Ski Binding Templates
• Drill and Tap Guides for Hand Drilling
• Drilling Skis to Mount Bindings
• Stainless Steel Screws for Threaded Inserts

Drilling Holes: 1/4″ (0.2500″) or F (0.2570″)? Some recommend using a 7/1000″ larger ‘F’ drill bit while others prefer the more standard 1/4″ drill bit which fit in our standard drill guides to assure vertical and accurate drilling. The F bit fits the Binding Freedom guide block better.We consider 7/1000″ well within the reasonable margin of error so either will work. The SVST stepped drill bits measure 1/4″ (with 5/16″ shank), as do our straight jobber or brad tip bits. A brad tip bit is very accurate for initial hole drilling, but not recommended for re-drilling existing holes.

Tapping: After the holes are accurately drilled, carefully tapping the holes to create interior threads for the inserts is required. The inserts are not self-tapping like wood and alpine screws (though some alpine screw installations require tapping (some tap their ski binding holes, regardless). Using a drill/tap guide with a stop collar or other visual aid is recommended. You want to be assured that you tap vertically and do not continue to tap a hole after the tap hits the bottom. It will strip the threads if the tap stops at the hole bottom and the tap keeps rotating.

Epoxy: Generally, a longer curing epoxy is best for more strength. Either the Hardman General Purpose  Epoxy (Blue) or the higher strength, Hardman Very High Peel Strength Epoxy (Orange) work well. The General Purpose is a light amber color and finishes clean and hard. The Very High Peel Strength finishes flexible and gray. Be sure to clean the inserts to free them of any oils or other material that may affect the bonding of the epoxy. A bike or chain degreaser is a good option. After filling the holes with mixed two-part epoxy, use a tooth pick to remove bubbles and coat all surfaces in the tapped holes.

Installing Inserts: The installation of threaded stainless steel binding inserts can be accomplished by hand with a dedicated insert installation tool and tap handle or a threaded shoulder screw, hex bit, driver and jam nut. The Binding Freedom inserts can also be installed with their dedicated 3 in 1 tool. After installing an insert with the threaded options and you are backing out the tool, you may feel the insert also backing out. A quick counterclockwise rotation of a driver or tap handle usually releases the tool and leaves the insert in place. If not, utilizing a jam nut and wrench in a clockwise direction while backing out will hold the insert.

For extractions, as mentioned previously, the Binding Freedom 3 in 1 tool can be used with the slot of the BF insert. A jam nut locked to the insert with a wrench with the threaded tool can be used. If that does not work, a reverse threaded extractor may be required. This may or may not damage the threads. Heating the insert with a soldering iron often softens cured epoxy enough to facilitate the extraction.

Be sure the inserts are installed flush or just below the top sheet. If you find later that one or more is just ‘proud’ of the top sheet, it can be filed or ground flush.

Screws: Flat, Button & Pan head stainless steel screws are typically used with the inserts to replace the original alpine screws. See the Stainless Steel Screws for Threaded Inserts post for more information.

Threadlockers: Loctite and Vibra-Tite VC-3 are recommended threadlockers that must be applied to the screws and let cure before screw installation. There have been issues with Loctitie and some plastic parts on some bindings. Generally, it is not a problem, but Vibra-Tite does not create these problems and is generally given the edge as the better of the two options.

Periodically reapplication of a threadlocker will be necessary if bindings and screws are frequently removed and reinstalled into others for binding swaps. Not much is needed, but be assured that the screws do not work themselves out.

If you have questions or wish to post a comment, please do so below.

Drilling your precious skis to mount your bindings is very straight forward and similar to drilling a multitude of materials like woods, plastics and composites.

Take your time, measure thrice and drill once. You’ll soon learn how easy and undaunted you will become.

If you haven’t done so, please also check out the following topics before proceeding:

-Finding Your Ski’s Centerline
-Paper Ski Binding Templates
-Drill and Tap Guides for Hand Drilling

If you find minor errors in your marks, you can use the awl tip to slightly ‘move’ the mark.

Once you are certain your hole layout is accurate, use a punch and hammer to enlarge the mark to provide a better guide for the drill bit tip.

Relative to your experience level, confidence, required tolerances, drill and drill bit type, and other factors, the following hand drilling steps may be variable. Stainless steel inserts require a higher level of accuracy for location and vertical drilling than an alpine screw.  If you have a drill press with a stop, you certainly don’t need a drill guide, but may consider using a drill bit stop collar on the bit. A stepped alpine drill bit ‘s shoulder may suffice for some as a reasonable ‘stop’ for drilling, but not others. A straight jobber, brad tipped or even stepped 1/4″ bits absolutely need a drill bit stop collar or certainty with a drill press stop.

The moment of truth, drilling the skis with a hand drill with various methods:

Drill Guide & Drill Bit Stop Collar:

1. Set the depth of the drill bit stop collar to proper depth
2. Locate the guide in the punched drill hole mark with the drill bit tip
3. Clamp if desired or secure with a firm hand
4. Turn on hand drill and to drill to the stop
5. Turn off and pull out bit
6. Repeat on the remaining holes

Drill Bit Stop Collar:

1. Set the depth of the drill bit stop collar to proper depth
2. Locate the drill bit in the punched drill hole mark
3. Turn on hand drill and to drill to the stop
4. Turn off and pull out bit
5. Repeat on the remaining holes

Freehand Drilling with Stepped Drill Bit:

1. Locate the drill bit in the punched drill hole mark
2. Turn on hand drill and to drill to the shoulder (BE CAREFUL)
3. Turn off and pull out bit
4. Repeat on the remaining holes

Mount binding parts with proper screws and driver:

Make sure bindings are mounted flat to the ski wsurface with no gaps:

Visually inspect mounting of all binding parts and alignment:

Have boot fit, correct forward pressure and proper DIN set by authorized ski technician:

One of the few things consistent between all of the various shapes, sizes, side wall and top sheet shapes, binding locations, and camber/rocker, etc of skis and snowboards is that they are symmetrical relative to their longitudinal centerline.

Finding the centerline with accurate measuring and layout tools is critical when drilling for and mounting bindings or checking their proper mount locations from the shop. Not only for side to side symmetry, but to assure they are in line with the ski.There are many simple and complex tools and approaches employed using any number of measuring and layout tools to determine the centerline. Some are accurate and some are not.

The first two thing to remember is that in order for your skis to perform as designed is that bindings need to be centered relative to the edges and NOT the top sheet or side walls AND the sides of skis are typically not straight, but curved. Additionally, their proper fore and aft location is important and establishing an accurate centerline assists in this regard.

Cautions: Without factoring the curvature of the ski sides, simply using a try square or intersecting diagonals or intersecting arcs can result in minor to major inaccuracies.

Granted, the turning radii of many skis is large enough that measuring from both sides using a square can be reasonably accurate if not used absolutely and directly across the skis,

while using crossing diagonals and arcs can result in large discrepancies. Top sheet graphics and variable side wall shapes are other sources of inaccuracies. Whether a skis is cap or sandwich construction or symmetrical top sheet graphics, they are not to be relied on for measuring the skis other than general dimensions.This leaves the edges as the ’benchmark’ for the lateral ski dimensions (as well as for base flatness). Accurate measuring tools like calipers, tape measures and rulers can easily find the width from edge to edge, but are not necessarily the easiest or accurate or reliable tools at transferring measurements to the top sheet for marking.

Easy & Accurate Techniques: A very useful aid is to place a strip of masking tape down the perceived center of the ski. If you don’t have tape a grease pencil on the top sheet works as does a clamped piece of string or straight edge. The longer the straight edge or distance from your end marks, the more aligned your centerline will be. If the marks are closer and you are slightly off center with one of your marks, the angle of the centerline will be greater than if they same two marks are farther apart.

A center rule, ideally with edge guides or ‘locators’ is the simplest and quickest  reliably accurate method to mark a center line. The math is eliminated and you simply need to match the measurements on each side of center to set the center.

This PDF centering template can be used to by folding it over the ski and creasing it over the edges at the same measurement and tape it. You can mark each end and then move the template other locations and use it on the other ski.

Using the common try or double square, is another easy option for finding center. Rather than spending time micro-tuning the blade location (with the handle against each edge) go ahead and ballpark the length either

just long or just short of center and make a mark along the end of the blade. After you have two marks, measure in between them to find true center.

Always double check your measurements, before, during and after drawing your centerline.

Once you are confident your line is indeed the center of your skis, you can square against it at the ski’s mounting point to draw your center line for your  boot center and tap on your binding template and are ready to mark and drill for an accurate binding mount.

A very useful resource for DIY binding mounting and comparisons is paper (or transparency) binding templates. Not only are they great aids for accurately laying out binding holes for drilling new holes, but you can also use them to compare existing hole clearances relative to new bindings, binding combinations and discovering unknown original bindings by the hole patterns on used skis.

Template Sources: Binding manufacturers often include templates in the box with new bindings (middle in image below).

Binding Freedom , the maker of stainless steel binding inserts has created a growing library of alpine and AT templates. (Bottom) Another insert manufacturer, Quiver Killer also is creating a template library (which may be edited versions of the Binding Freedom templates) along with other fastener downloads.

You can also draw your own (top). like we did with our CAD software, from a scan of the FKS/Pivot template provided by Look. It can be reprinted for multiple mounts and customized for different Boot Sole Lengths before printing.

Printing & Scaling: Accuracy is very important and the first step to verify printed templates is to check their relative scale and see how the actual bindings sit on the template to visually see if the holes align.

Check to see if the template has any scale or a dimension you can check with a ruler. Often the output from a printer can be slightly off for a variety of reasons. Scaling and reprinting may be necessary multiple times until you get it just right. If you cannot adjust the printing scale with your operating system or printing software, you may need to incorporate the use of graphics software that allows you to resize images and PDFs as needed before printing.

In the example above, the original print was off (too big) by 1mm in 200mm, or 0.5%. Since we needed to decrease the size of the print, we scaled the image 99.5% (199mm/200mm) to get the accurate result. If we needed to increase the output the same 0.5%, then we would need to set the printing scale at 100.5% (200mm/199mm).

For many the 0.5% discrepancy may be just fine, but if there are several layout, drilling and mounting steps off by 0.5% each, it’s possible to be off by a couple millimeters. On the other hand, sometimes minute errors cancel each other out and you can end up with dead on results despite the relative inaccuracies and many bindings do have built in adjustability. Regardless, it is best to be as accurate (especially for AT tech bindings) as you can with each step while also realizing this is not heart surgery and that these tolerances may actually be tighter than some shops and their binding mount jigs.

Splicing & Assembly: Because most bindings require variable Toe versus Heel piece locations due to variable foot and Boot Sole Length (BSL) AND the common printing length of 11 inches, usually two sheets are required per binding. As long as you locate each binding piece relative to the ski centerline and recommended or desired ski mount point and midsole boot mark, they can be utilized individually.

If you prefer to create one paper template per binding, you will need to print on a larger format printer or splice typical letter size sheets. Due to physical printer limitations, printing cannot occur to the paper edges. When two pieces need to be spliced, one piece will ideally need to be cut at the joint to assure accuracy during splicing (clear output does not need to be cut, unless desired).

Once one side is accurately cut, place it over the bottom sheet and a straight edge located along the center line. Align one edge and tape near the joint with masking tape to hold it close and still act as a hinge. Then align the other edge and the centerline of both sheets along the straight edge. Once this is correct, tape the other edge outside the center of the template. 

Double check the joint and the straightness of the centerline. If you can measure any components between the two halves, do so to verify accuracy. One thing we add on out templates isdimensions that we can measure to double and triple check physical and relative dimensions. After you feel certain the two halves are where they need to be, run a strip of clear tape over the joint on the front and then the backside.

Repeat on another pair if desired for one template per ski and cut off excess paper on the sides and ends. The masking tape will be removed in the process. The template(s) are now ready to be taped onto the ski centerline and mounting point at the boot mark.

Ski Centerline and Boot Sole Length and Mid Sole: As alluded to above, the binding mounting templates are relative to the centerline of the bindings and ski edges. The longer the centerline and straight edge, the more accurate the whole process will turn out. If you do not have a long straight edge, a piece of string secured on it’s ends works well. Typically, the two paper template sheets can slide along each other with a guide to align at the BSL. The BSL should be marked on the boot sole along with mid sole/mounting mark. If not, then measure the sole at the bottom from the tip of the toe to the heel. If unsure, further research may be required before attempting any of these steps and mounting your bindings.

The “|A” is the center boot mark and the “MM 298″ is the BSL for the boot n the example below.

The boot center mark is placed over the green mounting line for the 298 MM BSL on the template.

Other Binding Template Uses: Also as mentioned, comparing existing bindings to new ones and screw hole offsets can be performed. Here is a download that compares the midsole of a 328mm boot sole (not by SlideWright) to see an excellent example of how can be facilitated. You can turn off and on the PDF layers to isolate various binding combinations.

Accuracy for hand drilled holes, not only with location, but also depth and vertical alignment are easily assured with drill and tap guides. In softer materials (ie, skis and snowboards) and using coarse threaded, alpine binding screws allow for minor adjustments and are a bit more forgiving than the accuracy required when drilling and tapping for screw inserts. Guides are still a good idea when drilling your precious boards for ANY binding mounts.

In addition to guides and correctly sized drill bits, drill bit and tap stops assure the proper depth of the drill hole and can also be used to make sure you do not strip the threads while tapping for screw or insert threads. Stepped drill bits (vs straight) offer a shoulder which can work as a ‘stop’ for experienced techs, but properly used bit stops are cheap insurance to help you avoid drilling through your ski or snowboard and can expedite the process.

Drill and tap guides can be used by simply holding them in place, but clamping is also a good idea, especially if you are less familiar or less confident about the procedure. Practice drill and tapping using the guides by hand and with clamps on scrap material before ‘learning by trial and error’ on your skis or snowboard.

Sometimes drill guides are described as ‘jigs’. This may cause confusion for some since binding jigs are made with set hole patterns for specific bindings. Guides need to be accurately placed using templates or other form of hole layout, are more versatile and have unlimited applications, including some with V-grooves that can be used on round materials (pipes, ski poles, bike tubing, etc) and corners.

SVST’s Drilling ‘Jig’ is a very nice adjustable drill guide for 5/16″ drill bits. Typical stepped alpine binding and insert mounting drill bits have a 5/16″ diameter shaft and the tips are milled at different diameters and lengths depending on the screw or insert application. The diameters required for alpine AB tap or insert taps are different than the 5/16′ drill bit.

Binding Freedom Drill and Tap Guide Block is used with ‘F’ (0.256″) or 1/4″ drill bits in one hole and a stainless steel insert tap, heli-coil tap and Binding Freedom’s 3 in 1 tool. It was designed to facilitate the drilling and tapping for installation of Binding Freedom stainless steel inserts. It can also be used for tap-in inserts, heli-coils and Quiver Killer stainless steel inserts.

The Wall-Lenk Drill Guide Kit has four bushings that fit into the square, plastic base with a V-groove. Also included is a center punch that can be used with the 3/16″ bushing to locate and then clamp or hold the guide at a desired location. The bushings can be used as tap guides but have a little play for a perfectly vertical tap alignment. Depending on tap stop diameter it may not allow for it’s use because the stop will not clear the top of the base’s sleeve and continue to the top of the bushing. Tapping with the stop by hand and not the base is an option. Tapping without the stop but with the bushing in the base is another option.

The Big Gator Tool V-Drill Guide offers 17 hole diameters in it’s v-grooved, metal base. The holes are a touch generous for perfectly aligned tapping, but work well enough for binding inserts and screws. Stops can be used on all taps and drills.

The common question regarding the screws needed for stainless steel inserts (Binding Freedom & Quiver Killers have the same threads) and particular bindings hopefully can be answered here. It is impossible for us to remain on top of every screw for every binding and there are variables that can be at play depending on your particular set of circumstances (ie, insert installation depth, shims, binding thickness, etc).

Measuring your binding thickness and adding that to your insert depth is your best guide.

Ordering more screws than you think you’ll need is always a good idea. Also, you can always reduce the length of screws that are a little long. If in doubt, erring towards longer screws with the possibility of minor modifications by grinding or filing allows some flexibility.

Using a threadlocker like Vibra-Tite or Loctite is highly recommended.

Binding Freedom has a Screw Length Chart that will be updated from time to time, along with the following screw measuring tips and images.

Tips on Measuring your bindings for screw lengths

The downloads section at Quiver Killer, offers the following insights and chart:

This is your fastener guide.

You will find 5 fasteners enclosed to help you determine the proper M5 fasteners to secure your bindings to your installed Quiver Killer binding inserts:
• 10 mm pan head
• 8 mm flat head
• 10 mm flat head
• 12 mm flat head
• 16 mm flat head
1. Determine the correct head type. This is the easy part. It should be obvious what fits into your bindings best,
the flat or pan head. Note that your bindings may require more than one head type, so try all the holes.
2. Determine the correct length. We like to use what I call the revolution method:
a) Install your Quiver Killers into your skis*.
*you can also install an insert into a scrap piece of wood if you’d like to determine your correct fasteners before mounting your skis.
b) Without your bindings, take the appropriate headed fastener and screw it all the way to the bottom of the insert, counting how many revolutions it takes to hit the bottom. Remove the fastener and now use it to secure your binding to the Quiver Killer. Again count how many revolutions you get:
• If it stops before 3 revolutions, you need a longer fastener.
• If it stops at the same number as your ‘without binding’ test, it’s too long! This is the
worst. A fastener that is too long will tighten to the bottom of the insert and not secure your binding to the ski. You need a shorter fastener.
• If it stops between these two lengths , this is probably the correct fastener. We strive for between 3-5 revolutions.

c) Math: The M5 thread has a 0.8mm pitch. That means for every revolution the fastener moves 0.8mm. How to use this information:
• your fastener is too short: add 0.8mm for every extra revolution you would like to add. For instance, if you only got 2 revolutions with your 8mm flat head fastener, you’d like to add about 2.5 more revolutions (2.5×0.8mm =2mm) so add 2mm to the length of the fastener: a 10mm flat head is the correct fastener.

d) Repeat. It is likely that you will need more than one fastener length for your bindings even if the head type is the same, so again check every hole.

Note: please realize that when ordering your fasteners, the length of socket and pan head fasteners refer to only the thread, while the length of flat head fasteners refer to the entire fastener.
Check the download section of our website for the ever expanding chart of which fasteners (shown below) to try with your bindings.

Puder Luder, LLC • Denver Colorado • 720 291 9563 www.quiverkiller.com