Archive for November, 2012

The old adage “Measure Thrice, drill once” is applied to measuring, drilling and mounting bindings. A necessary part of the process is to double check ski mounting lines on both skis to verify accuracy. This step is typically overlooked when considering Boot Sole Centers.

Manufacturing errors, wear and tear and other factors may create an inaccuracy in the actual length and center of the boot.

As a simple tool to quickly verify the accuracy of your boot soles and there centers, here is a Ski Boot Sole Center Gauge that can be downloaded, printed and spliced at the Boot Center Line (after verifying scale) to set your boots on to check length and center mark accuracy.

A very useful resource for DIY binding mounting and comparisons is paper (or clear plastic) binding templates. Not only are they great aids for accurately laying out binding holes for drilling new holes, but you can also use them to compare existing hole clearances relative to new bindings, binding combinations and discovering unknown original bindings by the hole patterns on used skis.

Template Sources: Binding manufacturers often include templates in the box with new bindings (middle in image below).

Binding Freedom , the maker of stainless steel binding inserts has created a growing library of alpine and AT templates. (Bottom) Another insert manufacturer, Quiver Killer also is creating a template library (which may be edited versions of the Binding Freedom templates) along with other fastener downloads.

You can also draw your own (top). like we did with our CAD software, from a scan of the FKS/Pivot template provided by Look. It can be reprinted for multiple mounts and customized for different Boot Sole Lengths before printing.

Printing & Scaling: Accuracy is very important and the first step to verify printed templates is to check their relative scale and see how the actual bindings sit on the template to visually see if the holes align.

Check to see if the template has any scale or a dimension you can check with a ruler. Often the output from a printer can be slightly off for a variety of reasons. Scaling and reprinting may be necessary multiple times until you get it just right. If you cannot adjust the printing scale with your operating system or printing software, you may need to incorporate the use of graphics software that allows you to resize images and PDFs as needed before printing.

In the example above, the original print was off (too big) by 1mm in 200mm, or 0.5%. Since we needed to decrease the size of the print, we scaled the image 99.5% (199mm/200mm) to get the accurate result. If we needed to increase the output the same 0.5%, then we would need to set the printing scale at 100.5% (200mm/199mm).

For many the 0.5% discrepancy may be just fine, but if there are several layout, drilling and mounting steps off by 0.5% each, it’s possible to be off by a couple millimeters. On the other hand, sometimes minute errors cancel each other out and you can end up with dead on results despite the relative inaccuracies and many bindings do have built in adjustability. Regardless, it is best to be as accurate (especially for AT tech bindings) as you can with each step while also realizing this is not heart surgery and that these tolerances may actually be tighter than some shops and their binding mount jigs.

Splicing & Assembly: Because most bindings require variable Toe versus Heel piece locations due to variable foot and Boot Sole Length (BSL) AND the common printing length of 11 inches, usually two sheets are required per binding. As long as you locate each binding piece relative to the ski centerline and recommended or desired ski mount point and midsole boot mark, they can be utilized individually.

If you prefer to create one paper template per binding, you will need to print on a larger format printer or splice typical letter size sheets. Due to physical printer limitations, printing cannot occur to the paper edges. When two pieces need to be spliced, one piece will ideally need to be cut at the joint to assure accuracy during splicing (clear output does not need to be cut, unless desired).

Once one side is accurately cut, place it over the bottom sheet and a straight edge located along the center line. Align one edge and tape near the joint with masking tape to hold it close and still act as a hinge. Then align the other edge and the centerline of both sheets along the straight edge. Once this is correct, tape the other edge outside the center of the template. 

Double check the joint and the straightness of the centerline. If you can measure any components between the two halves, do so to verify accuracy. One thing we add on our templates is dimensions that we can measure to double and triple check physical and relative dimensions. After you feel certain the two halves are where they need to be, run a strip of clear tape over the joint on the front and then the backside.

Repeat on another pair if desired for one template per ski and cut off excess paper on the sides and ends. The masking tape will be removed in the process. The template(s) are now ready to be taped onto the ski centerline and mounting point at the boot mark.

Ski Centerline and Boot Sole Length and Mid Sole: As alluded to above, the binding mounting templates are relative to the centerline of the bindings and ski edges. The longer the centerline and straight edge, the more accurate the whole process will turn out. If you do not have a long straight edge, a piece of string secured on it’s ends works well. Typically, the two paper template sheets can slide along each other with a guide to align at the BSL. The BSL should be marked on the boot sole along with mid sole/mounting mark. If not, then measure the sole at the bottom from the tip of the toe to the heel. It’s probably a good idea to measure even if there is a a Boot Sole Center mark in the event there was a manufacturing error or general wear and tear of the soles. If unsure, further research may be required before attempting any of these steps and mounting your bindings.

The “|A” is the center boot mark and the “MM 298″ is the BSL for the boot n the example below.

The boot center mark is placed over the green mounting line for the 298 MM BSL on the template.

Using a hole punch at the BSL line helps you to align the template at your mounting line:

Other Binding Template Uses: Also as mentioned, comparing existing bindings to new ones and screw hole offsets can be performed. Here is a download that compares the midsole of a 328mm boot sole (not by SlideWright) to see an excellent example of how can be facilitated. You can turn off and on the PDF layers to isolate various binding combinations.

(Updated Nov 26. 2012)

Newsletter 11/17/12

The most noteworthy recent additions, changes and news include:

Tools4Boards Tuning Kits: Just in are the new Ski and Snowboard Tuning Kits. The Superstations have been in enhance with a couple more items and the cases are now larger and fold open with more pockets and sleeves.

Check out the NEW Tools4Boards FIX Symmetric Ski Vise System. Leave the center vise at home and take the portable support ends with you on your next trip to keep your boards tuned and waxed virtually anywhere.

Client Rewards:  to accrue and redeem your 5% Client Rewards points, you need to login to your account before checkout. You may have redeemable points ‘in the bank’ and you will need to login to double check and utilize them. You can also use your login to check on order status along with past orders..

Here is our list of Sale and Clearance Items ranging from 10 to 60% off! . Free shipping in the US for orders over $100.

To help you get your ski and snowboard bases ready, here is a Coupon code for an additionasl 10% off of Ski and Snowboard Vises and a KUU Pro Fix Base Repair Kit: NL111712VSI

Here is a soldering iron base Repair video from our weblog tips:

Please let us know if there you have questions or know of products that could be a good fit to our store, so we can offer you and others more options!

Best regards and Thanks for your continued support!

The Tools4Boards Razor 3 in 1 tool for base and side edge beveling, de-burring, sharpening, polishing and and sidewall cutting. Made of durable Lexan polycarbonate plastic. 0-6 degree side-edge, 0-3 degree base-edge angle options. Along with the include 5mm thick file, it accepts up to 5mm thick stones and other files including your favorite long file clamped diagonal. Accurately and quickly set desired edge and base bevel angles. Ergonomic and secure fit in hand to reduce fatigue and eliminate slippage. A must have for every snowsport enthusiast. Fits in pocket for on the slopes edge tweaks.

Download Tools4Boards Razor 3 in 1 Tool Instruction or Click on image below.

TOOLS4BOARDS TUNING STATION KIT (SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS)
Waxing Skis and Snowboards
• Innovative
• Simple
• Inexpensive
• Fast
SAFETY
• Always wax in a well ventilated area.
• Never leave wax iron on unattended.
• Use ski and snowboard vises.
• Pay attention. Sharpened edges can be harmful.
Skis and Snowboards perform at their best when the edges and base are maintained on a
regular basis. Tuned skis & boards are much more fun and responsive!
The TOOLS4BOARDS TUNING STATION KIT comes with a high quality edge tool, file blades, file
brush and stone to remove excess side-wall material and bevel, sharpen and polish both the
side-edge and base-edge of skis and snowboards. Please refer to the edge tool instructions
included in this kit for details on proper edge tuning. Go to tools4boards.com or your
Tools4Boards dealer for more information on tuning or to find kit replacement items.
BASE PREPARATION & MAINTENANCE
CLEAN UP
Start with a well-ventilated, clean and unobstructed area free of debris. Use a ski and/or
snowboard specific vise mounted to the table-top of a solid workbench. The TOOLS4BOARDS
CINCH vise is ideal for holding both skis and boards. When traveling a portable tuning stand
like the TOOLS4BOARDS TERMINATOR is an ideal platform on which to mount vises.
Wash your hands and make sure your ski or snowboard is securely fastened base-up in the
vise. Run the sharp edge of the PLEXI SCRAPER down the length of the base to remove old wax
and dirt. Brush the base vigorously with a NYLON BRISTLE BRUSH and wipe the base clean with a
sheet of MAPLUS LINT-FREE TOWEL. Run the towel down the each edge to remove any rust
NOTE: To keep your scraper sharp use the edge tool included In the kit. Simply place the sidewall
cutter blade in the side-edge slot of the tool and with the bevel angle set to 0′, pull the
tool along the side of the scraper a few times to reestablish sharpness.
There are two methods used to further clean the base:
1) Rub the warm temp MAPLUS WAX (White) like a crayon covering the entire base with a thin
layer of wax to protect the base from initial contact with an iron to prevent scorching, then
using the MAPLUS WAX IRON or similar with the temperature setting around 120′ C and,
positioning the block of wax a few inches above the base, gently hold the wax against the iron
to start the wax dripping. Move the iron along a few inches above the entire length of the base
reversing
direction 3 times so there are 3 lines of wax from tip to tail. Run the iron down the length of
the base and keeping the iron moving make a few passes (each pass around 5-10 seconds) to
melt the wax into the base. A thin layer of liquid wax Should now coat the entire base. Wait a
few minutes until the wax begins to harden and then use the plexi scraper to scrape the soft
warm wax off the base. Removing this soft wax wilt also remove dirt and contamination and
clean the
base. Brush the base vigorously with a NYLON BRISTLE BRUSH and wipe the base clean with a
sheet of MAPLUS LINT-FREE TOWEL
NOTE: If the wax smokes the iron temperature setting is too high. Always keeping the iron
moving along the length of the base to prevent burning or scorching of the base material.
2) Use MAPLUS CLEAN wax removing detergent spray to cover the length entire base and then
wipe clean using a sheet of MAPLUS LINT-FREE TOWEL. Brush the base vigorously with a NYLON
BRISTLE BRUSH
NOTE: To remove any micro hairs from the base material run the SCOTCHBRITE NYLON
ABRASIVE PAD down the length of the base, rubbing and pressing.
NOTE: To re-establish base structure, simply wrap 3M SAND PAPER around one length of the
PLEXI SCRAPER, then make a few passes down the length of the base pressing the paper against
the base materiaL
WAX ON
Depending on snow temperature rub on either MAPLUS HOT (White -5′ to O· C) or Cold (Green
·10 to -5′ C) temp universal paraffin wax like a crayon over the entire base to create an even
wax layer. Then cork in the wax by vigorously rubbing and pressing the cork back and forth
along the length of the base or, if a wax iron is available, set the iron temperature to around
120· C and, positioning the block of wax a few inches above the base, gently hold the wax
against the iron to start the wax dripping. Move the iron along a few inches above the entire
length of the base reversing direction 3 times so there are 3 lines of wax from lip to tai\. Run
the iron down the length of the base and keeping the iron moving make a few passes (each
pass around 5-10 seconds) to melt the wax into the base. A thin layer of liquid wax should now
coat the entire base. Wait 20 minutes until the wax has hardened and ski or board has
completely cooled and then use the plexi scraper to scrape most of the wax off the base. Run
one end of the scraper down each side of the ski or board edge to remove any excess wax that
may have overflowed onto the sides when ironing.
NOTE: Ironing wax into the base is the most effective way to apply wax to maximize
performance and durability. Consider investing in a MAPLUS WAX IRON if you don’t already own
one.
NOTE: If the wax smokes the iron temperature setting is too high. Always keeping the iron
moving along the length of the base to prevent burning or scorching the base material.
BRUSH UP
Using multiple overlapping strokes in one direction from tip to tail, vigorously brush the base
until shiny using a NYLON BRISTLE BRUSH. The more you brush the faster you go.
FIT TO BE TIED
Always use  ALPINE SKI STRAPS to protect bases and prevent skis from scissoring during
transport.

Xact All-in-one sharpens and bevels side edge, base edge and trims excess side wall. Simply turn knob to clamp file, or pull and turn knob to adjust bevel angle. Patented adjustment feature provides simple and accurate bevel angles. Ceramic rollers minimize friction and allow filings to fall away from base. Infinite bevel angle adjustment from 0° to 6°. Comfortable to use. Made of durable and impact resistant Lexan polycarbonate. Holds any length file or stone for side edges and includes high quality Swiss-made file blade for side and base edges.

Tools4Boards XACT 3 in 1 Edge Tuning Tool Instructions or click on image below.